BUILD A PC LIKE A PRO
Choose the right components Tips and tricks for your perfect build Install Windows the clever way
So, you fancy building a PC? Our computer business has been building and selling PCs for more than 15 years – countless machines in countless configurations. Each of them is built by myself or my wife, by hand, using the methods and workarounds you’re going to read about here.
This isn’t a simple list or discussion about the merits of certain components. It’s our method of how to spec, build and test a machine to a professional standard. As you’re reading this magazine, I’m assuming a little knowledge, but don’t worry if you would struggle to tell a Threadripper from a Pentium.
Although we’ll focus on a Windows build, the methodology works fine for other platforms, too. It’s not all about top-of-the-range components, either. It may surprise you to learn that our best-selling machine is built around the AMD Athlon Series. It’s not going to win any benchmark awards but for a family machine used for homework, photo storage and a sneaky game of
Fortnite, it’s perfect. We’re also commissioned to build PCs for specific tasks. Recently we’ve built a machine to map and model the biomechanics of horses, a big-budget unit for a gamer/YouTube influencer and a tight-budget computational fluid dynamics (CFD) workstation for a PhD student. Differing specifications but all designed and built the same way. We avoid proprietary connectors and always have options for costeffective upgrades and repairs.
Perhaps it’s been a while since you’ve bolted a machine together or
maybe it’s your first time. Either way, our tips should help you avoid costly pitfalls and get your desired PC up and running smoothly.
STAGE 1 Purpose and budget
The building begins with two important questions. The first, and most important, is: “what do I want the new computer to do?”
If the answer is “I want to run [insert popular software title here]”, crack out the fizzy because having a task in mind makes generating the specification much simpler. If the answer isn’t obvious, don’t panic – you’re the norm. I’m used to the blank expression this question generates. “It’s a computer, I want it to compute” is a common response.
If you’re stuck for an answer, my experience suggests that people want a computer that’s the same as their existing rig, but faster. This may sound unhelpfully vague but it’s exactly what you need to know.
Either way, think about the software you use, how much data you store and the games you might want to play. If your current machine is operational, run Belarc Advisor ( belarc.com/products_belarc_ advisor) to generate a report detailing installed software, product keys, storage numbers and specifications. Belarc’s report may highlight forgotten software that needs to be retained or reveal that a 600GB vault of documents and photos won’t squeeze onto a new 250GB SSD. Save this exceedingly long report for future reference but for goodness sake don’t print it. The cost of the ink will impact on the answer to the second important question: what’s your budget? Budgeting is the art of avoiding expense on unnecessary items whilst investing sufficiently to ensure the machine fulfils its function. That might sound obvious, but you would be surprised just how many times we’re asked to build a kickass gaming unit for £250. For these customers, we introduce the “three sliders of PC building”. The top slider is labelled “cheap”, the middle one “fast” and the bottom one “reliable”. Push “cheap” and “fast” to maximum and “reliable” shoots to minimum, but push “reliable” and “fast” to maximum and “cheap” takes a nosedive. It’s
imperfectly crude but illustrates that balancing the sliders is key to working out what you require, what you desire and what you can afford.
Also consider your hardware requirements. Do you need wireless? Have you ever used that card reader? Is this the machine that’s going to digitise a print photo collection? Note it all down because the next stage will put your wishlist and budget under the microscope.
STAGE 2 Research
At the end of this stage, you will have a shopping list containing the parts for your build, but it’s going to require research and potentially lots of it.
If you want the machine to run specific software then use the recommended (not minimum) system requirements of that program. For an “everyday” machine, a bit of email and genealogy maybe, let your budget guide you. It’s straightforward to build an overclocked i9 that makes the street lights go dim, but the skill comes in finding the cheapest components to meet your needs.
Start by making a list of the required components: CPU, RAM, motherboard, storage, graphics, case, PSU and operating system. There may be more, of course: optical drives, water cooler or Wi-Fi card. Focus on the components first and the cosmetic touches later. Would you prefer the machine to be quick or to flash like a Christmas tree? A great resource is PCPartPicker
( uk.pcpartpicker.com). The “System Build” feature creates a baseline system using compatible parts, whilst giving a rough cost. Experimenting with different components highlights what specifications fit your budget or how much money you will need to spend to meet your desired spec. Other useful resources include CPUBoss ( cpuboss. com), GPUBoss ( gpuboss.com) and CPU Benchmarks ( cpubenchmark. net). These are benchmarking sites that give broad-brush performance comparisons, which are handy when trying to choose between two chips. Spend time on this stage and experiment. It’s usually possible to make savings by switching to an alternative component that won’t drastically harm performance. This part is about balancing the sliders in the first stage. If you’ve just discovered that your budget is tighter than anticipated, then build clever. Buy a case that comes with a PSU or switch to a CPU with integrated graphics. Buy
a good motherboard that will accept a cheaper CPU as well as the desired chip that’s beyond your current budget. You can easily upgrade when more funds become available without wasting the rest of the build.
The overlooked component in computer building is the motherboard. Spend time scouring manufacturers’ webpages, look at maximum RAM limits, ports and CPU compatibility. If you’re not into overclocking, avoid boards designed to be ultra-tunable. If you want to crank things up, choose a flexible chipset (normally “Z” or “X” prefix) to match a tweakable CPU. Grab some decent thermal compound, too.
Do you need a full ATX motherboard or will microATX suffice? (Hint: it usually does.) Use form factor to select the correct-sized case. Need BitLocker? Get a board with a trusted platform module (TPM). Use an online PSU calculator ( msi.
com/calculator) to get an idea of the power requirements for the build, as it’s often a lot lower (and cheaper) than you would think. There isn’t room to explain why some 400W PSUs cost £25 and others cost £100 but do some research on voltage rails. Look for the “80 Plus” certification.
If you’re building a multi-graphics card machine, buy a case that’s spacious enough. You may not have noticed that most graphics card outputs are digital, so ensure your existing monitor is compatible.
Also be aware that not all CPUs come with a cooler. If you’re water cooling, most manufacturers list compatible cases to guarantee that the radiator will fit properly.
Once you’ve nailed this stage, and given yourself of plenty of time, then it’s time to go shopping. STAGE 3 Shopping Great resources such as PCPartPicker will generate a shopping list of bargains, but (and I’m speaking as a computer retailer here) it’s not all about the price. Vendor reputation is critical so take care with Amazon, eBay and other online “marketplaces” where it’s not always easy to tell who you’re buying from. Be sure that the vendor will look after you if components fail. You should stick to dedicated tech retailers. Your local PC shop may stock your parts or, if you want the convenience of online, use an expert (and PC Pro Award-winner) such as CCL ( cclonline.com) or Scan ( scan.co.uk). Always remember to ask about warranties, returns procedures and delivery charges.
Tech retailers often run manufacturer-led offers such as free games or discounted component bundles. Shop around and avoid suspiciously low prices. Don’t purchase until you are certain.
STAGE 4 Build
Time for the fun bit, but “leisurely” is the watchword here. I can build a basic system from “box to boot” in less than 15 minutes but more complicated builds take two or three hours. Don’t rush.
Before you begin, you’ll need a medium Phillips screwdriver, a torch, pliers, cable ties, wire snips and a lot of space. Kitchen tables are perfect.
Beware of electrostatic discharge (ESD). If you don’t have a wristband, there are ways to minimise risks such as building on a wooden surface and keeping components in their ESD bags until required. Dell has a great video on ESD safety: pcpro.link/298esd.
Use the manufacturer’s documentation (in the box or online), especially if the build is complicated. It’s easy to be wrong-footed by a quirky case design; realising that the fans on your watercooler are misaligned will bring tears to your eyes. The manual will save hours of rebuild time.
As I said in the introduction, this isn’t a step-by-step guide, but let me give you some pro tips.
Spend time looking at the inside of the case. It’s useful to place the motherboard (which will still be in its ESD bag at this point) into the case to get an idea of where the backplate apertures are in relation to the motherboard sockets.
Brass motherboard spacers may already be fitted to the backplate but they need to align perfectly with the mounting holes on your motherboard to avoid electrical shorts. Use pliers to carefully unscrew and correct this.
I get very excited by cable management. Keeping the wires out of the way looks better, improves the air circulation and makes the components more accessible. The route of the cables depends on the case design, but aim to route the cables out through one backplate aperture then back as near as possible to the required socket. Fit the PSU first as some routing points will be obscured when the motherboard goes in.
Don’t panic if you’re struggling here. Certain cases and PSUs have short cables and routing through the back is impossible. That’s why cable ties were invented. If you’re using them, don’t forget the SATA cables.
I/O shields always require a tweak. Gently push the metal flanges up so they sit on the port rather than in it. I’ve fixed many self-builds where “dead” machines have been shorted by the I/O shield. It’s easy to get wrong but very easy to get right.
If you can only hear the blood pumping around your brain, proceed – but any rattles need to be investigated for loose components or screws
If you are discarding the manufacturer’s CPU cooler for a different solution then the motherboard will probably need modifications to the CPU mounting point. Custom coolers can be fiddly things to set up so study the documentation and search the manufacturer’s website for links to video tutorials. Watch out for hidden plastic film covering the heatsink as high temperatures and funny smells are frustrating to deal with.
Thermal compound is crucial on non-stock coolers, but ask a bunch of techies how to apply it and an argument will start. It’s a creamthen-jam or jam-then-cream thing! Arctic have a great video on this: pcpro.link/298paste.
Once the motherboard is in, make a start on the connections. The tricky ones are the case switches and lights. The plugs on each cable have markings such as HDD, PWR and RESET, and these correspond to the motherboard socket. The trick is to spot the triangle indicating the positive terminal (or “+”) and align this with the corresponding “+” pin on the motherboard. Most motherboards are marked or colour coordinated but seek out the manual if unsure.
Spot the notch on the RAM to guide the alignment. Press the DIMM firmly into the correct socket and refer to the manual to see which ones they are.
Drives next. If you’re using 2.5in SSDs, keep an eye out for the mounting holes on the case, which will negate the use of a 5.25in caddy. If your build uses standard SATA drives, screw them in on both sides to avoid irritating rattles.
Now fit everything but the graphics card (if you’re using one). Spend time securing the power and data cables with zip ties. Use the loops machined into the backplate to make everything as flat as possible, or the case sides won’t fit properly. Don’t rush but remember to make the graphics card power accessible, if it’s required.
It’s safer to install the graphics card last as it’s tricky to work inside the case once they’re fitted. Don’t risk bashing it whilst trying to secure cables because the expensive crunch of a snapping PCIe socket will only be silenced by your own sobbing. Always screw it securely into the case – don’t leave it flapping in the breeze or it will break. Use a torch to look inside the case for connections that may have popped off as things were tightened. Recheck the fans by giving them a gentle spin to ensure nothing is fouling them or has dropped between the blades. Finally, pick it up firmly in both hands and give it a very gentle shake. Now do the same with it upside down. If you can only hear the blood pumping around your brain, proceed. But any rattles need to be investigated for loose components or screws.
STAGE 5 Hardware test
It’s time to fire it up so keep things simple by plugging in only a keyboard,
It’s extremely common for components to be faulty straight out of the packaging and it can be impossible to tell without testing
mouse and monitor. Go into the BIOS to set the clock and note the BIOS version. You can twiddle the rest later.
Search the motherboard website for BIOS updates, especially on newer chipsets. Most manufacturers have an “EZ Flash” tool so drop the uncompressed BIOS file onto a USB stick (FAT32 for maximum compatibility) and update. We’ve seen certain BIOS updates render Windows unbootable, so do it first.
Investigate any strange rattles, bangs and other noises. Confirm that the fan orientation is correct by placing a single sheet of kitchen roll against the vents on the outside of the case. The kitchen roll should stick where the air is drawn in and billow gently where air is pushed out. If it’s sucking instead of blowing (or vice versa) then shut down and fix it. Better to repair it now before you cook the system.
It’s extremely common for components to be faulty straight out of the packaging and, with RAM especially, it can be impossible to tell without testing. Professional tools are expensive, but I can recommend a free one for home users. MemTest86 ( memtest86.com) is an old favourite and the new version will create a nice UEFI boot USB. RAM testing needs multiple cycles, allowing chances for failure to occur. Set MemTest86 for 50 cycles and walk away for a day.
This may seem excessive but usually we commence testing on a Friday (hoping to spot any quick fails) and then let the software run over the weekend. I’ve seen many multichannel RAM failures only show after 30-odd hours. Time spent testing now can save hours of frustration later when the machine simply won’t behave.
Testing the other components for free is tricky without Windows so we’ll finish this later.
STAGE 6 Software install
If you have bought Windows 10 on DVD or USB then put it to one side. There is a better way.
Use the Media Creation Tool ( pcpro.link/298win10) to create a bootable USB of the latest version. This saves hours of updating as the version you’ve purchased will be out of date. The licence code will still work.
Don’t forget the drivers for your peripherals – the chipset, wireless cards, expansion cards. I have seen machines that don’t perform because hardware drivers have been forgotten. Graphics drivers are updated so frequently that you can ignore the DVD and head directly to the manufacturer’s website.
Grab the utilities to control the fans, RGB settings or overclocking from the motherboard’s webpage. If you have several fans, spend time tuning them, especially with water
cooling. Testing with FurMark ( geeks3d.com/ furmark) will easily make your machine sweat whilst you keep an eye on the temperatures. This also continues the testing from stage five. Another tool you can run is HDSentinel ( hdsentinel. com/index.php).
If you’re building for someone else, transferring the data from an old machine is probably part of the job. Invest €10 on Fab’s AutoBackup 7 Home & Office ( store.
fpnet.fr/index.php). It rattles through a hard drive, creating a repository of data from the usual folders and programs. You can then reverse the process to transfer the repository onto a new machine. To save more time, temporarily hook the “donor” drive into the new build to save messing around with external hard drives.
If you’re struggling with longforgotten passwords embedded into email clients, use Mail PassView ( nirsoft.net/utils/mailpv.html). But be warned: you may need to throw a tea towel over your internet security
The way we build is very similar to the way you would build at home – take your time, do your research and ask questions of vendors
expert to prevent them getting excited about these programs. However, they are perfectly safe if you use the links.
STAGE 7 Relax and enjoy your new machine
This is a deliberately old-fashioned way of setting up a computer. Using a prebuilt image would save many business hours, but we like our machines to breathe and come to life slowly. An organic process on a non-organic entity. Moreover, a slow build yields greater reliability for our customers. If a fan blows within ten hours or an SSD fails in a day, then I want to find and fix the problem before the machine gets anywhere near the customer. I want your machine to be as bullet-proof as possible.
The way we build in our business is very similar to the way you would build at home. Take your time, do your research and ask questions of vendors. You’re building a machine that you will know inside and out, with options to upgrade and repair with nonproprietary parts when the time comes.
Enjoy it.