TIPS FOR CON­VER­SION

Period Living - - Design Advice -

● You’ll need at least 2.2m of height, and the pitch of the roof can also af­fect the qual­ity of the space.

● If the roof isn’t high enough, it may be pos­si­ble to lower the ceil­ing in the rooms be­low, or raise the height of the roof; look at Mo­duloft, a com­plete mo­du­lar roof raise loft sys­tem.

● Most loft con­ver­sions don’t need per­mis­sion (up to 50m3 or 40m3 for a ter­raced house) un­less you live in a des­ig­nated area or the prop­erty is listed. See plan­ning­por­tal.co.uk.

● You can ei­ther hire an ar­chi­tect or de­signer to pro­duce draw­ings, then use builders to do the work, or put the project out to a full-ser­vice con­trac­tor to man­age every­thing.

● Be pre­pared to deal with ob­sta­cles like chim­ney breasts and wa­ter tanks.

● If you live in an at­tached home, you will likely need a party wall agree­ment (con­sult a party wall sur­veyor).

● In­su­la­tion is a key is­sue, and there is more than one so­lu­tion (see page 103 for more) – your de­signer or lo­cal build­ing in­spec­tor can ad­vise.

● The floor may need to be acous­ti­cally up­graded for sound­proof­ing.

● The con­ver­sion must meet fire reg­u­la­tions. This means adding smoke alarms and pro­tect­ing the stair­way with fire-re­sist­ing doors and par­ti­tions.

● The cost will vary de­pend­ing on the ma­te­ri­als and level of work in­volved – ex­pect to pay any­thing from £15,000 to £40,000 – or at least £1,200 per m2.

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