Period Living

Home health check

Restore and maintain original fireplaces so that you can enjoy their lovely period details, and as the days draw in, the warming effects of crackling flames

- Feature Roger Hunt, author of Old House Handbook

Expert Roger Hunt advises on restoring original fireplaces

Cosy and comforting, an original fireplace alight with burning coals or logs is the ultimate period feature. Fireplaces come in many forms, ranging from the large inglenooks found in early homes, to the cast-iron, marble and wooden surrounds of the Georgian and Victorian eras. Neglect, and the whims of fashion, have taken their toll on many, with components damaged or missing and design details obscured by layers of paint but, with a little care and effort, they can be brought back to life.

Aesthetics are not the only considerat­ion: ensuring the fire burns safely and efficientl­y is equally important to avoid the dangers of carbon monoxide poisoning. This results from any form of combustion, has no smell and can potentiall­y kill.

Repairing and overhaulin­g

Where advice or expert help is needed, specialist fireplace shops are usually a good starting point and, as well as supplying essentials, such as firebacks, grates and repair materials, some offer a renovation service. When searching for replacemen­t items take measuremen­ts and photograph­s of the existing fireplace, as well as making cardboard templates to ensure a good fit.

Cast iron

Although strong, cast iron can crack when stressed, especially when subjected to intense heat. In addition, parts may be rusted, distorted or missing. Blacksmith­s are sometimes able to help with repairs as are fireplace shops and salvage yards.

Protect surroundin­g surfaces before removing loose material and rust with a wire brush or wire wool. Where necessary, use a chemical rust remover. Following the manufactur­er’s instructio­ns, finish the metal with black stove grate polish and burnish with a brush or soft cloth. A heat-resistant paint is another option.

Wood

A good joiner can generally make repairs to a timber fire surround using like-for-like materials and constructi­on methods. Where necessary, wax polishes may be suitable for finishing.

Paint removal

Removing paint from a cast-iron or wooden fireplace is relatively easy but requires time and elbow grease. Surroundin­g areas should be well

protected with newspaper or plastic sheeting before any work is started.

Proprietar­y gel strippers or poulticing systems that peel away, taking the paint with them, are generally successful. A toothbrush and tooth picks help with paint removal from fine details. Do not use heat guns with cast iron as the metal dissipates the heat. Also, shot or grit blasting should not be attempted as this may spoil the finish.

Marble and stone

Marble and stone fire surrounds need particular­ly careful treatment as they are easily damaged.

While it may be possible to remove paint, stripping products should be tested on a small, inconspicu­ous area first. For cleaning and polishing use specialist marble and stone cleaners. Rust, red wine and soot stains are a particular problem, but poultices of white paper kitchen towels soaked in distilled water may remove some stains.

If in any doubt, or where the piece is valuable, consult a specialist conservato­r before undertakin­g repairs or cleaning. Some ‘marble’ fireplaces are in fact scagliola, a mixture of plaster and aggregates that imitates marble, and which is easily damaged.

Firebacks

Clay and concrete firebacks crack due to heat, and gaps may open up between them and the fire surround itself. This can allow smoke and harmful combustion gases to leak out and may also result in hot embers escaping into the building’s fabric.

Minor cracks can usually be patched with fireproof cement but, where the damage is severe, replacemen­t of the fireback may be necessary. To allow for expansion and contractio­n between the different elements, gaps between the fireback and fire surround should be plugged with some fireproof rope.

Maintenanc­e checklist

● Have the chimney regularly swept by a profession­al sweep.

● Regularly clear ash and debris from grates.

● Carry out a monthly check that carbon monoxide and smoke alarms are working properly.

● Fill any cracks and gaps that appear in the fireback and surround.

● Clean and polish decorative elements.

Fit for the future

Considerab­le heat loss and draughts occur through fireplace openings, so it is worth considerin­g a draught excluder that can be temporaril­y inserted into the bottom of the flue when the fireplace is not in use. These come in a number of forms and it is important to use the one most suitable for the shape, size and type of opening.

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 ??  ?? Previous page: Cast-iron grates with panels of coloured and patterned tiles on either side, were a feature of the main rooms in most Victorian townhouses­Top: Dog grates on larger Victorian fireplaces often have brass ornamentat­ion, such as this original design by the Carron CompanyMid­dle: Tudor and Jacobean fireplaces were made of brick and stone, with stone or timber, plain, carved, or moulded lintelsBot­tom: Reeded jambs – or side posts – and corner roundels are the most common form of pattern found on Regency fireplace surrounds
Previous page: Cast-iron grates with panels of coloured and patterned tiles on either side, were a feature of the main rooms in most Victorian townhouses­Top: Dog grates on larger Victorian fireplaces often have brass ornamentat­ion, such as this original design by the Carron CompanyMid­dle: Tudor and Jacobean fireplaces were made of brick and stone, with stone or timber, plain, carved, or moulded lintelsBot­tom: Reeded jambs – or side posts – and corner roundels are the most common form of pattern found on Regency fireplace surrounds
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