The heat is on
Adding radiators or underfloor heating to old home can seem a daunting task, but get it right and your home will be warm and cosy – and cheaper to run
The perfect guide to help you get your home toasty for winter
Period homes have a reputation for being cold, draughty and expensive to keep warm – but with some considered investment it needn’t be that way. Perfecting a room’s temperature is a balancing act between introducing efficient heat sources and controls, while improving insulation and blocking draughts. At the same time, the structure must be able to ‘breathe’ to avoid damp.
If you are looking at making big changes to your home’s central heating, then consult with a heating engineer or qualified installer with experience of period properties, who can advise on your individual requirements as well as the latest technology.
Are radiators right for my home?
Central heating radiators were a late Victorian phenomenon, although they look good in almost every era of home. Authentic cast-iron column designs vary from the simple pillar radiators you may remember from school, which were inevitably covered in layer upon layer of gloss, to beautiful ornate versions, which may be polished or painted.
For a contemporary twist, look at minimalist polished stainless-steel radiators, statement paint colours or industrial finishes, such as copper.
What material is best?
New column radiators are designed to work much more efficiently than early models, although the material they are made from makes a big difference to how they perform. Modern stainless steel and aluminium radiators are lightweight, warm up and cool down more quickly, and can be moulded into a wide range of designs, including column versions.
Traditional cast iron can take a while to warm up, is less controllable then other options and very heavy, but it does retain heat for a lot longer when the heating is turned off. You can usually get away with smaller models to achieve the same heat output as stainless steel and aluminium radiators.
Can i buy salvaged designs?
Reclaimed radiators will add an authentic period touch, and there are a number of companies who specialise in restoration. This involves testing and flushing them, updating the fittings to make them compatible with modern heating systems, and usually stripping any paint and dirt from the exterior. Expect to pay from £400 for a fully restored and tested four-column design with manual valves.
What size radiators do i need?
To avoid your home being too hot or cold, it’s important to calculate the correct quantity and size of the radiators you need. Size is affected by the heat output of the individual radiator, which
is measured in BTUS (British Thermal Units). A heating engineer can work out your needs, taking into account insulation levels, glazed areas and draughts. To do a simple calculation yourself, use the online calculator at theradiatorcompany.co.uk.
do i need valves?
Make sure you invest in quality valves in-keeping with the look of your radiators. Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVS) are self-regulating and control the temperature of a room by changing the flow of hot water to the radiator. This makes the system work more efficiently.
is it best to update my boiler?
If your boiler is older than 10 years, you will notice an improvement in terms of both comfort and energy efficiency by replacing it with a new model, especially if you are upgrading the radiators at the same time. Smaller households often suit a combi boiler, which provides central heating and hot water on demand, removing the need for a separate cylinder. Bigger homes with more than one bathroom are likely to benefit more from a system boiler, which stores hot water in a cylinder.
should i Consider underfloor heating?
Hidden away below the floor surface, underfloor heating (UFH) is an unobtrusive way of heating a home that is both space and energy efficient. It works by emitting a low heat level across the floor through pipes, cables or mats, providing continuous warmth and comfort.
The downside of UFH is that its installation will disrupt original floors, so where a historic covering would be damaged, it should be avoided. However, if your floors are not good examples or have been replaced in the past, or you are choosing heating for an extension, it is certainly worth considering.
What are the options?
Warm water – or ‘wet’ – UFH relies on heated water running through pipes. Alternatively, electric UFH uses either mats or loose cable. Manufacturers of both types of systems offer solutions for solid and suspended timber floors.
Solid floor systems tends to be the most efficient, as the pipe or cable is laid into a screed that helps to store and radiate heat. This is best installed above a layer of insulation to increase efficiency. If opting for a solid screed, look at limecrete over concrete as it is breathable, making damp less likely to occur.
When installing UFH into suspended timber floors, give thought to the harm that might be done to the historic fabric. Fitting the pipes or cable will require floorboards to be lifted or ceilings to be removed, both of which can be destructive.
Most electric systems are easy to install and are ideal for use over smaller areas, such as bathrooms and conservatories, as well as in homes without mains gas. A continuous loose cable is used, either laid into the floor or fitted on the surface as electric mats, which have a short warm-up time.