Heritage weekend
This unassuming market town is home to historic castles and gardens alongside modern icons
Explore the varied beauty and rich history of Alnwick
Dating back to 600AD, the historic market town of Alnwick, Northumberland, thrived as an agricultural centre. In the centuries since, however, it has seen castles erected, numerous wars fought, and, taking it back to its roots, massive agricultural development – all of which are now celebrated in the diverse heritage that the town has to offer.
The perfect place for lovers of period properties and ornate gardens, Alnwick has a whole host of strongholds, castles and halls just waiting to be explored. Take a tour of the world-famous Alnwick Castle and get lost in its labyrinthine gardens, then continue on to discover the natural beauty of Hulne Park, the only remaining of three parks that once surrounded Alnwick Castle.
If you have a penchant for the supernatural, take a ghost tour of Chillingham Castle, reputedly Britain’s most haunted, and see if you too can sense the spectres. To book visit chillingham-castle.com.
For a more relaxing experience, take a tour of Chillingham Park, keeping your eyes peeled for the rare Chillingham Wild Cattle as they roam through the grounds. A unique breed, they are natural clones and thought to be rarer than the giant panda. The park has spectacular views to the Cheviot Hills and is also home to fallow and roe deer, red squirrels and a fine variety of bird life.
For more details visit chillinghamwildcattle.co.uk.
Where to stay
For the perfect base when exploring Alnwick and the surrounding areas, look no further than West Acre House, set in an elegant Edwardian villa. Each of the four guest rooms is styled to reflect a different era or location, and has its own distinct features, from the Lincrusta wall panels and William Morris wallpaper in the Edwardian room, to the handpainted mahogany furniture and pretty French décor in the Parisian. For further details and to book, visit westacrehouse.co.uk.
Only a stone’s throw from Alnwick Castle,
The White Swan hotel offers a host of fascinating curiosities. Blending the venue’s unique heritage with comfortable accommodation, all 56 bedrooms have charming period features and tall windows, enjoying stunning views of the surrounding area.
A 300-year-old coaching inn, The White Swan was originally a stopping place for visitors en route to Scotland, and while still being popular for passers-by, is now a tourist spot in its own right. The hotel’s Olympic Restaurant offers a rare dining experience, featuring the original panelling, ceiling, stained-glass windows and mirrors from the RMS Olympic, the twin sister ship of the Titanic. Decommissioned in 1935, the Olympic’s interiors were sold at auction, where they were bought by the then owner of the hotel. For more details or to book visit classiclodges.co.uk/the-white-swan.
Where to shop
From the outside, Barter Books seems relatively unassuming, located in Alnwick’s former Victorian railway station. However, this is a bookshop like no other. With its seemingly endless rows of wooden shelves under its domed roof housing every category that could possibly pique your interest, and the station’s original waiting rooms sensitively restored and fitted with roaring fires, everything about the place invites you to pick up a book and start reading. What’s more, all the titles sold within its walls are secondhand, donated by members of the public.
In 2000, the shop hit the headlines when Stuart Manley, co-owner with his wife Mary, discovered an original World War II poster featuring the now famous slogan ‘Keep Calm and Carry On’, in a box of old books. Unbeknown to him, it was one of only two surviving originals. Liking the design, the couple framed it and hung it up next to the cash register. It attracted so much interest that Manley began producing copies and the now international phenomenon began.
After losing yourself in the stacks for an hour, make a pit stop at the aptly named Station Buffet, which specialises in local produce and homemade comfort food. For details visit barterbooks.co.uk. ➤
With a core of ten main dealers selling everything from mid-century furniture to
French chic homeware, artwork and jewellery,
The Beehive is a vintage-lover’s paradise. Lose yourself in the open-plan room and discover unique treasures while enjoying music played through converted vintage valve radios.
Seller Dooleys Discs specialises in antique and rare bottles, many of which were discovered locally and can be traced to specific businesses, breweries and companies, while Gecko Curios is filled with an eclectic mix of items discovered during the owner’s travels, plus find much more.
The Beehive’s social conscience radiates beyond the sustainability that comes hand in hand with vintage shopping. At the heart of the shop is a traditional beehive, complete with a detailed explanation of its inner workings. The store also sells local honey, supporting beekeeping in Northumberland because, as its motto states, ‘no bees, no us’. For more details visit beehiveuk.com.
Where to go
Only accessible via a causeway, a short drive away from Alnwick, the Holy Isle of Lindisfarne was an important centre of Celtic Christianity throughout the 6th century. Follow in the footsteps of ancient monks and explore the ruins of the priory that was built nearly 1,400 years ago. Continue with a tour of the small 16th-century castle that was converted into a private holiday home in 1905 by famed architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, with a walled garden designed by Gertrude Jekyll. Jekyll used the site of a vegetable patch, which once provided the castle with food, to create a spectacular flowering garden – a riot of vibrant colour and scent.
Inside the castle, a restoration project is underway, as a result of which rare wall paintings dating back to the mid 17th century have recently been uncovered. The National Trust has successfully used the stripped-back interior to showcase the entire history of the castle. The ‘Now You See Me’ exhibition brings the tale of the Tudor fortress to life, focusing on its pre-18th century history as a garrison, as well as its domestic conversion by Lutyens. Adult admission, £9. For more details visit nationaltrust.org.uk/lindisfarne-castle.
More highlights
● Howick Hall Gardens and Arboretum, the ancestral seat of the Earls Grey (of the tea fame) since 1319. For more details visit howickhallgardens.com.
An award-winning people’s museum, Bailiffgate
●
Museum and Gallery tells the stories of over
100,000 years of history, art and culture. Find out what’s on at bailiffgatemuseum.co.uk.
For the perfect summer’s day out, explore the
●
Northumberland Coast at Alnmouth Beach,
an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
IN FOCUS: alnwick Castle
There are very few people who would not recognise the iconic exterior of Alnwick Castle. With its sandy toned bricks, octagonal towers and gothic architecture, the castle rose to international fame as the setting for Hogwarts in the first and second Harry Potter films. However, this castle’s fame dates back much earlier, to the 13th century, when it was elaborately rebuilt by Henry Percy, 1st Earl of Northumberland. Balancing military requirements with the family’s residential needs, it set the template for castle renovations across northern England. Still occupied by the current Duke and his family, Alnwick is the second largest inhabited castle in England, behind only Windsor. Throughout the summer months, however, the castle is opened up to the public and visitors can explore the lavish state rooms, library and dining halls. Following a renovation in the 1850s, the State Rooms were redecorated in an Italian Renaissance style, and feature richly carved ceilings inspired by the Vatican. The magnificent library, located in the large tower, houses nearly 15,000 books, the earliest of which dates back to 1475. With a marble fireplace and plush sofas, the room oozes grandeur but at the same time feels extremely welcoming. It is no wonder that the library is the favourite room of the family when they are in residence. The elegance continues into the garden. Designed in 1750 by Capability Brown, it also features additions by the 3rd and 4th Dukes respectively, including tropical and Italianate gardens. However, developments were halted in the early 20th century when the gardens were turned over to provide food during WWII. It wasn’t until 1997 that the garden saw a revival under the care of Jane Percy, the current Duchess, in a redesign that would become Britain’s most ambitious garden creation since the end of the war. Today it is still a spectacle to behold. At its heart stands the cascade waterfall, where 120 water jets amaze with a repertoire of dramatic displays. Next, take a sensory journey through the sensational colours and scents of the Rose Garden, home to over 3,000 David Austin roses, including the exquisite Alnwick Rose. Venture on and you will discover an orchard of Tai Haku cherry trees, the largest collection outside Japan. These are interspersed with hanging double swinging seats for taking a moment to sit and reflect. On your tour of Alnwick’s grounds, don’t miss the Poison garden. Enclosed behind ornate iron gates, it was opened in 2005 by the Duchess to promote awareness regarding drug abuse. It is a legal requirement that the gardens remain locked to the general public and can only be accessed by guided tour. Filled with over 100 infamous ‘killers’, such as hemlock, belladonna, tobacco and, with a licence from the home office, cannabis – it is a garden like no other. Finish your trip with a stop off at the Treehouse and enjoy a treat in one of the largest of its kind in the world. Suspended 18 meters above ground level, nestled in and around mature lime trees, the cedar and pine building looks as if it’s been there for ever. Adult entry to the castle £16.75, gardens £13.20, combined £28.70. For details visit alnwickcastle.com or call 01665 511100.