Health check
Keep on top of basic maintenance and repairs of staircases so that they do not suffer unduly from wear and tear
Renovation expert Roger Hunt advises on maintaining staircases
Easily taken for granted, staircases take many forms, with timber, stone and metal used separately or together in their construction. These materials have allowed the creation of staircases that range from the simple to the grand, with their design and degree of ornamentation related to the status of the house and their position within it. Most staircases are at their most elaborate in hallways and other areas where they are seen by visitors, but become far plainer when located elsewhere in the property.
Timber staircases are formed from a number of key components. With the advent of mass production, standard stair parts began to be widely available rather than made bespoke. Treads are essential to all staircases and, although some have an open-tread design, most are accompanied by vertical risers. These are usually jointed into sloping timber boards, known as strings, that form the sides of the staircase. The inner string is typically fitted to the wall while a newel post supports the outer string and handrail at the end of each flight and, in turn, transfers the weight of the staircase to the floor. The upright posts between the handrail and string are known as balusters or spindles.
New staircases are governed by building regulations, which consider such things as the headroom above the stairs, their steepness and the rise and going – the depth of the tread from front to back. Allowing for these factors often means that a new staircase will take up more space than a traditional one, so replacing an existing staircase is not necessarily straightforward.
Repairing and overhauling
Little thought is given to maintaining staircases unless there is a problem, particularly as the underside is frequently hidden by a soffit formed of plaster and wooden laths. But it is important not to overlook potential issues such as beetle infestation or rot. Depending on the materials involved, all but the simplest work may require the services of a carpenter, metalworker or stonemason.
Wherever possible, repairs should be carried out in situ, as removing sections from a staircase is potentially difficult and damaging. New work should be done on a like-for-like basis using matching materials, traditional construction techniques and well-seasoned timber.
Creaking stairs
Squeaks and creaks are common concerns and are often cured by screwing the tread to the riser. If access from below is possible without causing unnecessary damage, check that the blocks that hold the treads and risers together are secure and, if necessary, reglue or replace them. Joints between the treads and string can be tightened by driving wedges into the joints from below.
Damage and decay
Worn or damaged treads are a common problem but, in some cases, only the front part of the tread is affected. The edge is usually curved with a ‘nosing’ projecting over the riser and this can often
be sawn off and replaced with a new length of suitably shaped timber, which is then glued and screwed into place.
Rot and insect infestation are potentially a more serious problem; both are linked to moisture and may be indicated by a musty smell or powdery deposits. Before carrying out repairs to the staircase, it is essential to find and rectify the cause of the damp conditions rather than simply dealing with the symptoms. Damaged wood may have to be cut out and new pieces jointed in. Sometimes it is also necessary to strengthen the underside of the staircase with timber.
Stone staircases
Structural movement can affect stone staircases, causing cracking and even collapse. It is important to assess the overall stability of the staircase, and therefore is often advisable to call in a surveyor or structural engineer. Repairs, including those to worn steps, must be undertaken by skilled craftspeople. They may use a variety of techniques to remedy defects: cutting in new stone, resin bonding and ‘stitching’ sections together.
Handrails and balusters
Wooden balusters are particularly vulnerable to damage. Split or broken spindles can sometimes be glued and temporarily ‘splinted’. Alternatively, they may be reinforced with a dowel drilled into the end of each of the two halves. Where parts are beyond repair or missing, architectural salvage or timber yards may have a match. Alternatively, a copy can be made by a wood turner.
Timber and stone staircases sometimes have iron balusters with wooden handrails that are secured from below using screws. Iron balusters were often secured using molten lead poured into holes cut into the treads. Where cast-iron balusters are missing, moulds can sometimes be taken from those that are surviving so that new ones can be cast to match.
Cleaning and painting
The accumulation of paint built up over the years on timber and iron staircase components will mask fine details so it may be necessary to strip these layers using propriety strippers. Softwood was always painted, so its appearance when bare can be disappointing and it’s usually advisable to repaint. Hardwood handrails, often of mahogany, were designed to be polished so should be cared for in the same way as good furniture.
Maintenance checklist
● Fix loose or creaking treads.
● Identify powdery deposits that may indicate beetle infestation.
● Deal with any damp problems as these could affect the stability of the staircase.
● Repair damaged or loose spindles or balusters.
● Replace or repair damaged treads especially if these present a hazard.
● Look for cracks in stone stairs as these may be a sign of structural movement.