A LATE SUMMER LASAGNE OF SORTS Instead of using sheets of pasta in this lasagne, I’m using long, wide, thinly sliced courgette to create the layers. It makes it lighter and ups the veg ante.

SERVES 6

FOR THE WHITE SAUCE

● 750ml whole milk

● 4 bay leaves

● 1 onion, sliced

● 1 celery stick, sliced

● A few black peppercorns

● 60g unsalted butter

● 60g plain flour

● 125g Cheddar cheese, grated

● Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE FILLING

● 1kg ripe mixed heritage tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on size

● 2 aubergines, sliced into 2-3cm rounds

● 1 garlic bulb, cloves separated and peeled

● 2 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed

● Good pinch of chilli flakes

● 2-3 rosemary sprigs

● 8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve

● 1 small bunch of basil, leaves picked and ribboned

● 6 small handfuls of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped

● Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

● 6 large courgettes, very thinly sliced lengthways

1. First make the aubergine and roast tomato filling. Heat the oven to 150°C/ 130°C fan/300°f/gas mark 2. Place the tomatoes, cut sides upwards, on a large baking tray. Add the aubergine slices and scatter over the garlic cloves. Sprinkle in the fennel seeds and chilli flakes, and tear over the rosemary leaves. Trickle everything with 4 tbsp olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.

2. Roast the vegetables for 1 hour 20 minutes, carefully stirring once or twice, without breaking up the tomatoes too much, until the tomatoes are soft and blistered and the aubergine is golden and crisp around the edges. Scatter the herbs over the vegetables. Turn the oven to 200°C/180°C