Ebbe von Rosen’s romantic, decorative home – built by her parents – holds a special place in her heart
Life on the island of Sandhamn has changed little over the years. Ebba von Rosen’s home looks just as it did when her parents built it, over a hundred years ago
Tranquil, unspoilt, and as close to the natural coastal world as you can get, Sandhamn is one of the furthest islands in the Stockholm archipelago and is a famous
Swedish sailing port. Continue across the sea from Sandhamn and you leave the archipelago, with Finland the next main port of call.
The clue is in the name: ‘sandhamn’ means harbour of sand. The small village on this understated, picturesque island has a grocery store, restaurant and a popular hotel, and there are just 150 residents. Many of them choose to enjoy the island’s tranquillity all year round. They are hardy, seafaring people who fend for themselves on this island that has practically no facilities in winter.
Until recently, Ebba von Rosen spent the whole year here. She was born here and is now in her seventies, and loves these stunning surroundings. She is a natural sailor, coming and going by boat like all the island’s inhabitants. These days, however, when winter approaches, she returns to the mainland. Life is becoming too difficult for her during the colder, darker months, with no cars allowed here to help her get around.
Come summer, Ebba is back on the island to enjoy a ringside seat for the Gotland Yacht Race in July. The views from her home are second to none. Setting off from Stockholm, the yachts race through the archipelago’s narrow straits and countless skerries, before reaching the Baltic Sea, and a spectacular finish in Sandhamn. The island’s population swells to around two thousand, all eagerly watching the yachts cross the finish line.
It’s no wonder Ebba’s connection with the island is so strong. ‘It’s in my blood. My parents built this house in 1897,’ she says. ‘And it’s looked this way all my life.’ Indeed, looking around the house is a real history lesson; it’s as though time has stood still. The outside of the house and the paint colours are the same as they were when it was built, and the furnishings and décor inside are from a bygone era. ‘The furniture, accessories and textiles are all original,’ says Ebba. ‘Most belonged to my parents, and some things even belonged to my grandparents and great-grandparents.’
This romantic, Jugend-style home – the German equivalent of art nouveau – is typical of its time, and is the only remaining house on the island with its original paintwork. This is why Ebba is determined the outside should never be changed. ‘The veranda faces north towards the sea and is the only part of the house that has ever needed any repairs,’ says Ebba. ‘My father replaced some of the timbers in 1945. He didn’t really do a professional job, it’s a bit rustic, but it has lasted well.’
Step inside, and you’re instantly transported back in time. On the ground floor there’s a hallway, kitchen, elegant dining room and the main salon – a family sitting room with dramatic sea views.
In the hallway, limewashed light wood, and stained and painted furniture in pale grey, are complemented with handmade cushions collected over the years. There’s a cottage feel throughout, and the stained and painted floors suit the relaxed island lifestyle. There are also some amazing artworks - charcoal drawings, paintings and sculptures - of a quality more often found in a grand mansion on the mainland.
On the ground floor the ceilings are decorated panels of carved wood and walls are adorned with a handpainted frieze. Dark colours complement the antique furniture and dainty hand-embroidered lace curtains, with blackout blinds behind to shade the sunlight. A quiet corner houses a beautiful rococo writing bureau from the mid-1700s. Cool yellow and blue stripes create a bright, elegant dining room, the blues echoed in the Chinese rug, beneath an antique Gustavian chandelier.
A curved staircase sweeps up to a landing large enough for a space to read or write, with breathtaking views from the windows. In fact, all around this house there’s the temptation to stop at every twist and turn to admire the view from yet another angle. There are three bedrooms and a generous-sized hallway on the first floor; two of the bedrooms are attics with sloping ceilings, prettily decorated still with their original wallpapers. Continuing the delicate bird and flower themed wallpapers across the sloping ceilings creates a wonderful combined and cosy effect. Here, matching textiles are used in the cushions piped with a highlight colour, blending walls and bedding to create a harmonious look.
Collecting Chinese memorabilia is very popular in Sweden. ‘My parents were no exception,’ says Ebba. ‘They were ardent travellers; the third bedroom houses their Chinese collection of furniture and objets d’art, with specially selected wallpaper to enhance the Chinese theme,’ she says.
‘My favourite memories here are of my childhood,’ adds Ebba. ‘The times we enjoyed together when the whole family was here. I have spent time here since I was two years old, and my memories of this home are very special – memories that will never fade.’ That’s understandable with a home as special as this one. Ebba fears that in the not too distant future she may be unable to get to the island, and that thought breaks her heart. However, though she may have to give up visiting the house in person, the memories and joy it has brought will live with her forever.