DIRT TRACKING
Mike Harris gets plastered in dust and dirt as he shows you how to capture dramatic rally photos
2 HOURS Rallying is arguably the most photogenic motorsport of all. Brightly liveried cars drifting round hairpin corners, kicking up plumes of dust, showers of gravel and lashings of mud, with the action happening against a beautiful rural backdrop, is a sight to behold. But like most sports, it can also be incredibly challenging to photograph.
Stages stretch for miles, so if you’re not ultra-familiar with the course, it can be difficult to know where to set up camp, and unlike circuit cars, which stay glued to the same racing line on a smoothly laid track – rally cars are relatively erratic, thundering over bumps and constantly wrestling to stay on the road. But perhaps the biggest challenge is the constant barrage of dust and dirt…
On a wet day you’ll have to deal with mud, and on a dry day you’ll have to deal with dust. The former will require you to constantly clean your front element, while the latter can produce a thick haze that will confuse your autofocus and even obscure the cars.
Cleaning materials such as a lens cloth, air blower and lens brush will help you weather the barrage, and a lens hood will help protect your precious front element from airborne stones.
The techniques used to photograph rally are much the same as for other forms of motorsport, but bumps in the road and uneven surfaces make subjects more erratic; so, even if you’re a seasoned trackside veteran, you’re in for a bit of a challenge. Follow our tips, however, and you’ll be able to capture action-packed and pin-sharp shots.
1 LENS IS MORE
We used a 24-70mm f/4 and a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 to photograph our rally cars. The former’s wide-angle end was used for panning, as spectators are able to stand so close to the track, and the telephoto end, along with the super-telephoto zoom – was used for distant corner shots. If your lens comes with a hood, use it, as it will help protect the front element from flying debris. We’d also recommend bringing along a lens cloth, air blower and even a rain cover to keep your optics dust- and mud-free.
2 CAMERA SETTINGS
You need to be able to control your shutter speed, so use Manual mode or Shutter Priority. The former will afford you the best results, but if you’re not confident, the latter is a good starting point. Keep your ISO as low as you can and, wherever possible, keep your aperture at around f/8 to f/11. Shutter speed always takes precedence though.
3 FIND YOUR FOCUS
You need to use your camera’s continuous AF mode, but which AF-area mode you choose is largely down to personal preference. We used Single-point AF on our Nikon but Dynamic-area AF, or your camera’s equivalent option, will also stand you in good stead. If too much dust plays havoc with your autofocus, either wait for it to disperse, or consider switching to manual focus
4 CORNER CRAFT
We shot this image at 1/320 sec, f/8, ISO400, which provided the depth of field we needed to render the headlights and windscreen in focus, once we used AF to lock on to the front of the car. We fired the shutter when the car was close to the apex of a bend and in full drift, but you could also capture a car accelerating out of a corner and kicking up plenty of dust.
5 CAPTURE MOTION BLUR
When panning, you track your subject while simultaneously firing the shutter as it passes. Lock focus, match the vehicle’s speed, and use a slow shutter speed to capture a sharp subject surrounded by motion blur. We shot down to 1/125 sec with the long zoom, and 1/25 sec with the wide end of our standard zoom, but you can practise at faster speeds.
6 SET YOUR STANCE
When panning or handholding a long lens, how you stand can have a dramatic effect on the sharpness of your shots. If your lens has a collar, remove or swivel it upwards so that you can securely cradle the barrel. Stand upright, plant your feet, and point them in the direction in which you intend to capture the subject. Finally, push your elbows into your torso to help support the lens further.