How to improve wet clay soil and flocculate at same time!
Most of you will have heard the news that Brian Kidd died a week ago today (November 29) aged 82. He had written his gardening column in The News for almost 40 years.
Born and bred in Portsmouth, he loved the paper and believed it played a vital role in the community he so loved.
Ever the professional, Brian always filed his columns a month in advance. So, with the agreement of his son Chris, we will continue to publish them into the new year. ----------------------------
A recent column inspired two allotment holders at Fareham to write to me about improving wet clay soil.
If worked well, clay is very fertile. The secret of success however is to work with it when conditions are right.
Clay is difficult to deal with because of its structure. It comprises millions of particles which are plateshaped and they all stick together. The only way to resolve this is to increase the air in the clay and add as much organic material as possible.
As this task is daunting, it's wise to improve one area at a time and if done well the result will be permanent.
The area to be dug is best tackled in early winter, so, right now because we have had rain. If dry, clay is difficult to dig.
Instead of using a spade it's easier with a stainless steel digging fork. A trench should be taken out of one end of the area to be improved and in the bottom place a generous amount of straw. Stable manure with lots of straw is ideal but straw on its own is just as effective.
As digging proceeds, a little at a time if it is really difficult, clods are thrown forward. Leave them in lumps as large or even larger than house bricks. Don't break them down at this stage.
Once a line of digging is completed, place another thick layer of straw in the bottom of the trench and if some of it is still visible after the clods have been thrown forward, it means you are using enough.
Lime the ground immediately after digging. Eight ounces of garden lime to a square yard, but do not use it where acid-loving plants will be grown.
Lime flocculates (breaks into small lumps) soil with each frost. Water in the clay freezes and swells so when the soil thaws water goes deeper into the clay. In turn it swells and fissures are created which attract even more water. Wind also plays a part in drying the sods’ surface which all helps break down the clay.
My final recommendation is to apply a thick layer of sharp sand or fine grit all over the surface, about 2in deep is ideal. Leave this until the middle of February.
Spring rains will help the grit particles fall into the cracks. This dressing often disappears quickly. Remember to keep working with the weather not against it so by April you should be able to walk over the surface to lightly cultivate it.
If the surface is dry enough it will be fluffy. A good test is to kick it. If it's OK, the particles will be fluffy and move easily. If wet, keep off.