A partridge broth to warm the soul as game season arrives for another year

Partridge broth

At this time of year the low sunlight gives the morning walks with the terriers a particular glow. The cool air temperature reminds us that the colder months are coming and the warmth of the sun is just about holding on. September sees the start of the game season, although grouse has been in restaurants from August 12. Partridge is a favourite as it’s milder than grouse or pheasant. This small bird can be roasted whole, but here the legs are braised to give a tasty broth and the breasts are roasted and served with the leg meat.

Ingredients (serves 4)

4 partridge

1 carrot chopped

1 onion chopped

2 cloves garlic

1 leek chopped

Bay leaf

Small bunch thyme

200ml white wine

500ml chicken stock Vegetables to serve

Stick celery chopped 2 carrots cut into rounds 2 shallots sliced

Small swede cut into cubes

2 cloves garlic sliced thinly

Method

1. Cut the legs and breasts from the partridge. Put the breasts in the fridge until later.

2. Heat a large casserole pan and add a knob of butter. When the butter bubbles add the vegetable and allow to brown.

3. Add the garlic , herbs and wine – bring to the boil and add the chicken stock

4. Bring the liquid to a simmer and add the partridge legs. Cover and cook in the oven for 1 hour 15 minutes at 150C/ gas 3.

5. Remove and lift the legs from the broth. Pick the meat from the bones and put into a saucepan. Strain the broth through a sieve onto the leg meat. Now add the fresh serving vegetables and bring to a simmer. Taste and season.

6 .Season the breasts with salt and white pepper and pan fry in butter until golden. Roast at 200C/gas 8 for 6 minutes.

7. Allow to rest while you spoon broth into bowls. Put breasts on top to serve.

Lawrence’s restaurant is Fat Olives, Emsworth. Visit fatolives.co.uk