Viognier – the white wine grape for people who really prefer red

It might have passed you by, but yesterday (Friday) was International Viognier Day - a celebration of one of the most exotic grapes and one which nearly disappeared completely. By the mid-1980s there were just a few vineyards of viognier left in the northern Rhône Valley but today, thanks to a growth in popularity there are significant plantings from the south of France to Australia and South Africa.

It is not easy to grow, hence its decline in the ’70s and ’80s but in the right hands it can produce relatively full-bodied white wines which are relatively high in alcohol and low in acidity. They are often described as hedonistic with aromas of peaches, tangerines and honeysuckle and often have an oily palate. They are particularly versatile when it comes to food.

Queen Bee Viognier 2021, Western Cape (Laithwaites £12.99 or £10.99 in a mixed 12) is produced by the Journey’s End winery and is a really good introduction to this variety. Journey’s End is a sustainably focused producer and this wine takes its name from the Cape honey bee. It is unoaked with aromas of ripe peaches, some tropical fruits and a little honey. The palate is quite rich with more peaches but with enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively on the finish. Good value and one for roast chicken.

I had a zoom tasting recently with Louisa

Rose, chief winemaker at Yalumba in South Australia, who has done much to raise the profile of viognier. Yalumba produces a range of viogniers from the brilliant value Y Series Viognier (Majestic £9.49 or

£7.49 as part of mixed six, Sainsbury’s £8.50) through to the most profound example of viognier produced outside of France, The Virgilius. If I had to pick one it’s Yalumba Organic Viognier 2021, South Australia (Waitrose

£9.99, M&S £9.50), one of the few certified viogniers in the world. It is unoaked with aromas of orange blossom, ripe nectarine skins and a little spice, followed by a silky, smooth palate.

You could happily drink this with a Moroccan tagine or a creamy mild curry.

You will have to dig deeper for Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier 2018, Eden Valley (Ocado £40, vinvm.co.uk £36.40) but if you like viognier and want to taste one of the great expressions of this grape then this is for you. Don’t serve this too cold and maybe even decant. Louisa says you can almost think of viognier as white wine for people who like red wine – so serve with rich shellfish dishes or soft, creamy cheeses. n Alistair Gibson is proprietor of Heritage Cellars. Call 07712 669973 or e-mail alistair@heritagecellars.co.uk