Scotland’s stunning Western Isles
Richard Hare joins two friends for a cruise in Scotland’s less-frequented Western Isles
A cruise in uncommonly calm conditions
When Brian Scott, owner of the Moody 34 Jody, emailed me to ask if I’d be up for 12 days’ crewing in Scotland’s Western Isles, I leapt at the opportunity. Also on board would be another Woodbridge chum, David Shuster. The weather during the fortnight before our June departure date had been fantastic in Scotland for Brian and his family, unlike down south, so I was braced for disappointment. O ye of little faith – with gin-clear skies and a glass-like sea, it was only during the last three days of our stretch together that the weather turned boisterous, but fun.
From Glasgow’s Buchanan bus station it was a three-hour coach journey to join Jody at Dunstaffnage Marina in the small village of Dunbeg, just east of Oban. It was a gloriously still summer evening, quiet and sublime, and I was met at the bus stop by Brian and Dave (the latter having driven up earlier that day). Our first port of call was the onsite restaurant/pub for a couple of pints before boarding, unpacking and then settling down to a welcoming spaghetti bolognese.
Day 2 – To Tobermory
Day 2 broke to glorious sunshine and not a breath of wind. Dave needed to drop his car off in the free car park in Oban – our final destination – and Brian had some tasks to attend to. So, ordered to chill out, I walked around the bay to check out Dunstaffnage Castle, a monolith that dates back to the early 13th century at the height of the battle between indigenous Scots and Norwegian kings for control of the Hebrides.
Come midday, it was time to fuel up and catch the tide. Under engine we crossed the Firth of Lorn then chugged up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory. At the southern tip of the sound we passed Duart Castle, a location used in the film Entrapment starring Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones. By late afternoon we were moored up in Tobermory, a pretty but touristy town where we settled down for the first of several sun-blessed drinkiepoos and alfresco cockpit dinners.
Although we didn’t take advantage of it, the fish and chip van based on the jetty received much praise from a steady flow of punters. There’s useful public seating nearby too. However, for those looking for something more upmarket, Tobermory has what look like some pretty stylish restaurants. Meanwhile, the distillery offers tours, and there’s a wellprovisioned Co-op. Our marina fee was £25 (water and electricity included, showers extra) on our boat’s 10.4m (34ft) basis.
Day 3 – Destination Coll
Day 3 brought yet more sunshine and the promise of a breeze. Alas, this was no more than a routine