The next job was to fair the area along the rubbing band to smooth the mat/resin layers that covered the original hull/deck joint. For this we use ordinary car body filler, which is quite acceptable as long as it’s not used for underwater areas. It will be covered with an epoxy coating so will be well protected.
1 The faired hull is moved out of the workshop ready for detailed sanding to achieve a good finish.
9 Topcoat is applied like undercoat but more thinners is added. Generally speaking, if the paint drags off the pad more thinners is required to give a smooth flow. A light rub down followed.
10 Two further coats were applied without any additional rubbing down. The masking tape was carefully removed before the final coat had fully hardened – this avoids the edge chipping.
11 A pair of idiots demonstrating the shine that can be achieved! Note the pad marks in the surface: these will all but disappear as the paint cures and the surface ‘relaxes’ to give a near spray finish.
6 Once thoroughly stirred and mixed in the paint bucket the undercoat can be decanted into the paint tray ready to get started.
7 Paint is applied generously with the pad in a downwards stroke, ideally in one continuous movement from top to bottom of the area being coated.
8 Once the undercoat has cured, a light rub down with wet and dry paper should be all that is necessary before the first topcoat is applied.
2 Care is needed when fairing the filled areas to avoid removing too much material. Eye and respiratory protection is essential.
3 A second coat of epoxy and a light filling followed. After a light rub down and a final thin coat of epoxy the topsides were ready for their first undercoat.
4 As usual the base paint was given a good stir before the curing agent was mixed in. We weren’t using the whole tin so the mix was made up in a paint bucket.
5 We use DIY painting pads which generally last about half an hour before the epoxy softens them to a point where they’re no longer usable.