Norfolk Broads cruising
No parents allowed, a team of four youngsters plus two 71-year-old 'codgers' experience a Broads' adventure, writes Margaret Blatcher
Four youngsters enjoy a Broads adventure with their grandparents
In the world of mobile phones, computers, internet and apps we felt it was a grandparent’s duty to excite our grandchildren, twins Olivia and Alex, aged 12, plus Christopher, ten, and his brother James, eight, with an adventurous week exploring the Norfolk Broads.
No parents allowed; a team of four youngsters plus two 71-year-old ‘codgers’ were to skipper a 45ft Broads Cruiser, plus a lugsail dinghy, and enjoy the tranquillity, beauty and escapism offered by this corner of the UK. The logistics were challenging: the twins are both celiacs (which means they cannot eat wheat, barley or rye) and Olivia is also dairy-free. Plus the only opportunity to shop
mid-week was to be in Wroxham. Entertainment was another consideration, with no internet, mobile phone or TV signal, boredom could arise.
The preparations were akin to an army operation, menus for each day worked out, food prepared and frozen. Numerous activities planned from learning to splice and navigate, sketching, painting, photography, first aid, right down to learning how to moonwalk, dance the floss, twist and Gangnam Style.
My husband and I have sailed for 50 years, the past 30 spent cruising and racing a Kelt 850. The twins, who live in Dubai, are both dinghy sailors and in the winter live on a Kaufman 49 blue water cruiser at Dubai Offshore Sailing Club. They have their RYA level 4 and are used to crewing on trips of up to 400 miles from Oman to the UAE. Christopher has his RYA level 3 and James enjoys crewing the Kelt and messing around in boats.
Our week on the Broads was to be an Arthur Ransome experience, offering the children the freedom to sail off together, row, explore dykes, discover the wildlife and history of this interesting water world.
A scenic start
Our adventure began at Stalham on the River Ant where we collected our Broads cruiser and spent some time transferring food and gear from an overloaded car to the boat, which required some ingenuity with stowage. Although every box was labelled it took several days to track down where everything had been squirrelled away.
The boat’s sliding roof was slid back and a safety talk given before we steered her out of the yard. We travelled down the tree-lined river with its water marigolds and waterlilies to Barton Turf. A sighting of a Kingfisher excited Alex as he is a keen wildlife photographer.
Barton Turf is a small village at the head of a quiet dyke leading to Barton Broad, the name reflecting the history of peat digging on the Broads in the Middle Ages. We were staggered to discover that Norwich, along with the cathedral priory, used 400,000 turves a year. Over time the peat diggings were flooded which created a patchwork of rivers and lakes making it the UK’s largest and finest wetland landscape with 125 miles of navigable waterways.
Having moored at the staithe we prepared supper while the children went off to explore. A boardwalk took them from the staithe to the village where they looked out for a row of four cottages that were built in 1953, the Queen’s coronation year. The architect designed the roof lines to look like a crown. The village has a green and pond, which we hoped they wouldn’t fall in, and an attractive village sign showing a Wherry. In the 17th century Barton Hall was the home of Nelson’s sister and it is believed he enjoyed sailing on Barton Broad. When the children returned, they donned lifejackets and headed out to row around the dyke before returning for fish pie and bed.
The following day was just as hot and sunny, which encouraged us to motor to Barton Broad where the children could spend time sailing and rowing.
Eventually, they stowed the sailing gear and rowed the dinghy the full length of the Broad where we arranged to meet them. Once the cruiser was anchored by its lead weight, my husband and I joined the children in the dinghy and rowed down the River Ant to the small staithe at Irstead.
We wanted to take them to see the ancient 14th century, church of St Michael. I’d prepared a quiz which encouraged them to observe the thatched roof, stained glass windows, and find a priest’s hole and a statue of St Michael fighting a serpent.
Like most medieval churches it has elements from a variety of periods, a Norman Tower, remains of wall paintings which had been limewashed over in the Reformation, original pews with handcarved animals on the arms and an Elizabethan pulpit with a carved monk’s head on the stairs. We even found the grave of Sir Francis Palgrave, founder of the Public Records Office.
Knot-tying competition
After returning to the boat for a snack, the children learnt to splice and whip rope. We also had a competition to see who could tie a bowline the fastest. All four children could tie the knot in two seconds (and only three seconds behind their backs). Duly refreshed we motored down the River Ant to How Hill, a large estate with beautiful grounds, which is now an
‘The preparations were akin to an army operation: from learning to splice and navigate, to how to dance Gangnam style’
Environmental Study Centre, where we intended to spend the night. The thatched Edwardian House was built by architect Edward Boardman for his family in 1904 and is surrounded by parkland, woods, a secret garden and reed marsh, all of which has free access to the public.
Once moored to the staithe the youngsters once again went off to explore. They discovered Toad Hole Cottage, a 100-year-old Marshman’s abode which is now a museum. Inside, they could see what life was like for the family and outside there is a small cottage garden with vegetables and herbs which would have been tended by the Marshman’s wife.
On the way back to the boat they spotted a beautifully-restored Wherry, called Ardea the name taken from the Latin for the Heron family. The rudder was very long but shallow, making steering possible in shallow water and the varnished hull and cabin sides gleamed.
Once the children returned we had lunch before going off together to explore further. We made our way through the grounds, enjoying the cool dappled woodland shade before entering the water garden with its exotic plants, specimen trees and the most enormous leaves on a gunnera the children had ever seen.
However, the walk through the wood was more interesting to the youngsters. While we ambled round the garden they shot off to make a den and by the time we found them their construction was not quite complete but we said they could return in the morning and complete it. On our way back to the main field we found another connection with sailing. Christopher Boardman was the leader of the crew of the 6-metre Lalage in the 1936 Olympic Games held in Germany and was presented with a gold medal and oak sapling by Adolf Hitler. The oak was planted in the grounds but suffered storm damage and was felled in 2017.
However, the stump had a yacht carved on the top and it is now a memorial to the sailors and the event.
Before heading back to the boat we practised rope throwing and had a tug of war. The next day after the children completing their den we motored down the River Ant, under Ludham Bridge to the River Bure where we turned east to the staithe at St Benet’s Abbey. The ruins of the 14th century gatehouse and 18th century mill of a Benedictine Abbey are a popular landmark of the Broads.
This was the only Norfolk monastery founded in the Anglo Saxon period. However, the inaccessible location led to the site being abandoned in 1530 and most of the monastery being demolished, the stone and flint being removed and used in other local buildings. Remnants of the gatehouse remain with the conical shaped shell of the wind pump, which was built at a later date.
A walk round the site provides good vistas plus a feel for the size of the original monastery. A large cross is set at the site of the original alter and an information board shows what the site originally looked like. The Bishop of Norwich holds a service here once a year.
After lunch we turned west towards South Walsham Broad, passing an otter swimming down the river, our first wild sighting of one. This Broad is surrounded by expensive houses with lawns reaching the water’s edge, boat houses and motorboats. We continued to Malthouse Broad where we would spend the night.
There was more sailing and rowing before going ashore to visit Ranworth Church, where the children climbed the tower’s narrow spiral staircase, ascended a ladder to the platform by the bells and went up rickety wooden steps, through a trapdoor to the roof to find a stunning 360° view.
Moving on
The following morning we rowed ashore to visit the nature trail round Ranworth Broad with its very interesting visitor centre. The boardwalk to the centre wound through boggy woodland and a reed bed which towered over us.
Displays explained how the Broads were formed, how the reeds were used for thatching and included hands-on projects such as examining different bones, wing feathers, insects, nests, jigsaws and sounds of the Broads. The children were extremely reluctant to leave.
Time had come to move on. We continued west down the River Bure to the staithe which has a path leading to Cockshoot Broad, a tranquil, peaceful haven restored to its natural state with crystal clear water which encourages beautiful waterlilies, dragonflies, insects and birds. As we motored further west my husband introduced the children to the joys of geometry. They learnt how to bisect angles and construct a pentagon.
Our next overnight stop was at Salhouse Broad where the children rowed ashore with a picnic. Eventually, they returned to try to photograph the bird life, Great Crested Grebes being their favourite as they were the hardest to approach.
The next day we set off for Wroxham to top up our supplies. We motored through Horning with its beautiful waterside houses, past the Swan Inn to Wroxham. Livvy and Christopher found the architecture fascinating as, at the moment, they both want to be architects.
We managed to get a mooring at Brinkscraft but it was a very small space and required careful manoeuvring to get in. Even more interesting was teaching the children it is possible to warp a large boat round to make it easier to get out.
We returned to Salhouse Broad as we knew a trip boat came in to the Broad in the evening, The children nicknamed it the ‘Boogie Boat,’ as it either had a jazz band on board or a very loud disco.
After supper we decided to have a First Aid session. My husband suddenly appeared with a realistic gash in his arm and I asked Livvy to push down hard to stop the bleeding but Christopher and James roared with laughter saying, “There’s a very strong smell of tomato ketchup round here.” So much for trying to catch them out, but we went on to discuss how to treat burns, scalds, broken arms, twisted ankles, concussion etc. Much to the children’s delight we sent a photo to their parents but their expressions were hardly those of someone in pain, more one of suppressing a laugh.
Boogie Boat
Then we heard the Boogie Boat and bandages went flying as the crew rushed on deck. Everyone on our boat danced to the music, James doing the floss and the rest of us making fools of ourselves but the people on the trip boat’s upper deck waved and joined in.
Our antics were obviously contagious as other people on boats close to us also came out to dance. Then we heard an announcement from the trip boat saying that they intended circling back and playing the twist to see whether the people on the blue boat could do the twist.
Of course we could do the twist and we all demonstrated in an unselfconscious manner. At least we made a few people laugh and everyone around us seemed to be friendlier. I must admit it did take the children a little while to settle down afterwards, not exactly the same as a quiet read before bed but something else to remember. Memories are made of this.
After breakfast we all rowed ashore and had a walk in to the village of Salhouse. The route takes you along a footpath lined with extremely old trees, some almost completely hollow and others that cry out to be climbed, providing you are not 71-year-old ‘Crumplies.’
From here we motored a very short distance to the staithe for Hoveton Great Broad where we walked the nature trail. the trail was opened in 1969 and consists of a 1km walkway through a variety of sensitive habitats ranging from wet woodland to reed beds. We walked in silence so we could listen to the bird calls and observe butterflies and dragonflies.
Next we motored east past St Benet’s Abbey to the River Thurne. Livvy and Christopher were now totally engrossed in designing their own riverside house with masses of glass, eco friendly and of course with an attractive boat house.
Winding past two windmills at Thurne Dyke we progressed towards Potter Heigham Bridge where we stayed for lunch and watched the boats trying to get through the small arch. The yachts were very impressive as they lined up the bridge, quickly dropped the mast and shot the bridge before hoisting the mast and proceeding on their way.
After lunch we made out way back to
‘As the light started to fade a long line of Greylag geese swam by, beak to tail. It looked like they were trying to do a geese Conga’
Malthouse Broad the children amusing themselves by designing and painting birthday cards for Christopher and James’s mum, whose birthday was the day they’d come to pick up the children.
After dropping the lead weight, the children went off in the dinghy to explore a very narrow, overgrown dyke. After supper we introduced them to a chart of the Thames Estuary explaining how to measure distance, lay off courses and being aware of the buoyage, they seemed totally fascinated.
The next morning a mist hung over the broad making the herons look as though they were shrouded in a silver gossamer cloak. While we cleared up breakfast James disappeared off in the dinghy to practise his rowing. When he returned we all went ashore to walk the 2km to South Walsham village.
A tricky manoeuvre
Back at the motorboat, we lifted the lead weight and proceeded to Ludham Bridge for lunch where we moored alongside a grassy bank. We teased the children about walking from here to How Hill not expecting them to think it was a good idea. The long walk is along a narrow footpath, cracked and uneven in the drought, and I was nervous as the walk is not very popular. However, they decided to go. After waiting for 15 minutes we decided it was time to leave but hadn’t considered that we might struggle without our crew.
There was a strong cross-wind blowing off the bank and we had dug in two extra warps to save us swinging out into the river. We now had to undo the extra warps before removing the two riverbank anchors. We realised we could not hold the 45ft boat in to the bank on our own. We had to work together, lift out the anchors simultaneously and then dash aboard before the boat was too far out.
No problem, we made it but life would have been much simpler if we’d had our four extra crewmembers, particularly as we had to lower the roof and windscreen before going under the low bridge.
Once through I stood on top of the roof, rather like a meerkat looking out for danger, while I scanned the reed beds for signs of the children. Four little heads occasionally appeared above the tops of the swaying reeds. As the river wound its way north we eventually spotted the children running alongside some trees as they headed down towards the staithe at How Hill.
Just as they ran, breathless, round the corner to the staithe and flopped on a seat, we motored round the bend and they jumped up ready to take our lines before getting aboard.
We continued on to the bottom of Barton Broad at the entrance to Neatishead for our final night, which was a special gaming and disco night, hopefully a night to remember.
Last night festivities
We decided to celebrate our last night with a special meal and a bottle of non-alcoholic champagne lookalike.
My husband explained about making sure the cork didn’t go overboard and pollute the broad and very carefully undid the retaining wire. Needless to say the cork shot off about 15ft and landed in the bushes, which had everybody laughing at Granddad’s shocked expression.
A call went up to retrieve the cork, lifejackets were rapidly donned and a rescue party rowed over to the bushes.
After supper it was time for a game of pontoon. Granddad acted as banker and the crew had great fun trying to break the bank. Then it was time for disco. We started by showing them videos of how to do the moonwalk which we all practised. Another video had us dancing Gangnam Style, this was followed by James teaching us the floss and finally a jive.
As the light started to fade a long line of Greylag geese swam by, beak to tail and it looked like they were trying to do a geese Conga. Our last musical effort was a sing-song and Conga round the boat which ended up with us all flopped in the cockpit laughing. Not exactly a quiet end to a busy day but the children had walked, rowed and run and dropped off to sleep as soon as their heads hit their pillows.
Our final day dawned with blue skies and water like glass. After a hurried breakfast we started packing away our belongings and the remainder of the food. Boxes and bags were stacked up in the aft cabin while the kitchen and toilets were cleaned ready to return the boat to Richardson’s at Stalham. Our final trip was back up the peaceful river, past waterlilies and marsh marigolds to Stalham.
Hopefully, a holiday to remember which didn’t require mobile phones or the internet just an appreciation of our environment, a sense of humour and the closeness of a family enjoying a tranquil water world at a slower pace of life.
‘Our antics were obviously contagious as other people also came out to dance’