Electric windlass refit
An erratic electric windlass proved fairly simple to repair
decided to make one. I drilled and tapped an 8mm hole so a screw could be used as a simple plug. The hole was made below the centreline of the mainshaft as oil will be carried around the internal components when in use (it’s the same principle as a car differential).
Reassembly
After thoroughly cleaning all parts I pushed new bushes into the gears, the case and the case cover.
I fitted the lead bevel gear into the casing and the circlip fitted into its groove on the bevel gear shaft. I fitted the key into its groove and the emergency wheel slid on with a light tap from a rubber mallet.
The second bevel gear was fitted to the cover and the small bevel gears were fitted to the case secured on their Allen screws.
The dog clutches and spring were fitted onto the main shaft together with a washer that is fitted between the clutches. I carefully checked that the clutches were the right way round and slid freely and that the key was fitted in the main shaft.
The mainshaft was inserted into the case and through the bevel gear then the cover was pressed into place (there’s resistance because of the spring between the dog clutches) and attached with the six Allen screws.
The chain gypsy inner cone clutch was fitted, making sure to slide it over the key in the mainshaft, then the gypsy was fitted with the outer cone clutch and held in place with the wing nut.
I refitted the chain stripper and, at the other end, aligned the rope drum with its key and tapped it onto the shaft, before securing it with a washer and bolt.
I poured around 125cc of gear oil into the case through the new filler hole and then plugged it with a screw. I rotated the whole windlass to spread the oil over the gears, before clamping it to a bench to test the new handle and it all worked smoothly
With purchase of oil, screws, bushes and handle the cost of parts and postage was approximately £30.