Indian Ocean atoll
Huw Williams visits Direction Island in the Cocos Keeling islands – one of the world’s best kept secrets
Cocos Keeling... the best snorkelling spot in the world
Direction Island is a spit of coral and sand set on a reef. It’s part of the Cocos Keeling Islands in the Indian Ocean around 1,500 miles north-west of Perth, Western Australia.
We sailed there as part of the World ARC fleet from the island of Lombok, Indonesia, stopping at Christmas Island, before running downwind for another five days.
We rounded the western end of Direction Island and anchored in the lee just off the beach.
The beach itself is breathtaking: the whitest sandy crescent, the most perfect palms and turquoise water gently lapping the shore. Stingrays cruise the shallows, we spotted several turtles and the occasional reef shark scattering shoals of exotic (unknown to me) small fish.
The Cocos Keeling Islands aren’t on most people’s radar. Indeed, most people have never heard of them. There are just two flights a week from Perth. Few know that 2,000 miles to the west of Darwin, at 12° South, lies a tropical paradise. I’m glad of that. I want it left alone.
There is no drinking water on Direction Island. No one lives there, although there is free wifi. People visit, though – day trippers from the main island, called Home, on the tiny ferry that makes a twice weekly visit.
What’s the attraction?
At the south-eastern end of the beach, the sand gives way to jagged lumps of sun-bleached coral. Compared to the rest of the island it’s unattractive, ugly even. But a few metres ahead is a break in the fringing reef that’s perhaps 60m wide. The break is why we are here.
A sun-faded metal sign announces that we’re in the right spot and advises us to be aware of strong currents which can cause dangerous conditions for poor swimmers. The sign also tells us the spot’s name: The Rip.
Legend has it that this is the best snorkelling spot on the planet.
Over the centuries swells driven by cyclones and the prevailing winds have battered this spot and a narrow gap has slowly widened and deepened. On the day I visited there was a 2m swell pounding on the outside and a powerful current streaming through the gap. Plankton and other food items are naturally channelled here, and small fish thrive on the rich diet. Larger fish arrive to eat the small fish and apex predators like sharks, in turn, feed on them.
I’d never heard of this place until a few weeks before my arrival, but it’s been visited for years by true aficionados and slowly the legend has grown.
Some of the crews already have their gear ready and are preparing to dive in. Others are already out there. Some have returned and are recounting their experience with outsized superlatives:
“Unbelievable”, “Breathtaking”, “Incredible”, “The best ever”...
‘The sheer variety and quantity of marine life was breathtaking’