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Most people will give a tow for free – but if not, make sure you agree fees before you start. Stand off until both boats are ready and you are certain there is nothing in the water that could snag your prop. Then the safest course is usually to cross their bow and receive the towline to your quarter. Watch out for chafe and mind your fingers!
A. Some boats’ stern cleats are not strong enough to tow from, so rig extra lines to other strong points.
B. A bridle with a quickly-tied ‘figure of eight’ eye (C) will keep the tow central across the stern. Some people also add a fender to stop the bridle sinking into the prop.
D. Ideally you should be able to slip the tow line at either end, even when it’s under load. The dinghy could rig a bridle, or just take a turn around the mast or thwart if they are strong enough. A ‘round turn and two half hitches’ is handy as it can be released under load. E. If the casualty is stuck on a lee shore, and you have sufficient depth of water, throw them a line from your bow and simply back out.
F. With shallow water, anchor off and let the boat drift back as far as you can.
G. Ideally both boats should be in communication by radio, or failing that mobile phone or hand signals. Keep the tow as long as possible so the line acts as a shock absorber, and go slowly. The dinghy crew should sit well aft, raise the centreboard and steer towards the stern of the tug.
H. Trailer boats have a U-bolt in the stem, which is ideal to tow from, but can be awkward to reach from the foredeck. Some people attach a short line there for connecting to an eye tied not too near the end of the tow line. The tail end of the tow line can be led back and used to haul the knot inboard.
I. When close to harbour bring the tow alongside. Rig a strong spring, to take the towing loads, and a couple of breast ropes to stop her swinging about. The boats should ‘toe-in’ slightly and the tug’s rudder, or outboard, should be astern of the vessel under tow. Both vessels’ rudders can be used together for really tight turns.