Practical Boat Owner

Bending a toe rail step-by-step

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1

We made new bobbins for the new rail and screwed and bonded them in place first. Galvanised metal rightangle brackets were then screwed on top so we’d have something substantia­l to clamp the rail against while bending it.

2

Using a fine band saw, two cuts were made along the length, stopping short at different distances a few inches from the aft end (inset). Though still joined aft, this effectivel­y split the rail into three equal pieces. The latter were tied together and placed in the steamer.

3

We made a steamer from a 4in plastic drain pipe wrapped in blanketing and secured to a fence rail. Inside, a platform of wire garden trellis held the wood away from the walls of the tube. Our steam generator was an old wallpaper stripper. An hour of steaming is required for every inch thickness of wood, so we needed about 45 minutes.

4

Once out of the steamer, the solid rear end was first screwed down and then the three pieces were bent and clamped round the angle brackets. Plenty of clamps were needed to hold the strips together and follow the correct contours. Speed is of the essence as the wood cools quickly and loses its flexibilit­y.

5

The next day, the cooled wood was unclamped and copious amounts of PVA glue spread between the three pieces before they were clamped back into position. Once the glue had set, the rails were again removed and cleaned with a belt sander, shaped using a router, and finished

6

Screw holes were filled with wooden plugs and we applied several coats of varnish. To varnish the underside of the rails, we cut up a paint pad and mounted it on a small piece of scrap aluminium to allow us to varnish upside down.

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