Weekender: Northumberland
Alisdair and Christine Lyle explore the history of Hadrian’s Wall, imperial Rome’s northern boundary
Alisdair and Christine Lyle discover the history of Hadrian’s Wall, the northern boundary of Roman Britain
WE WERE HEADING for Haltwhistle in Northumberland, which sits alongside the northernmost edge of the Roman Empire, a frontier marked out by Hadrian’s Wall. For us, this would not be a long drive south, and on the recommendation of friends, we stopped off at Gretna Green. While there, we did a little shopping at the Gateway Retail Outlet, but it was far too busy for our tastes, so we decided to look elsewhere for lunch. We were travelling down the A6017 to Longtown when we spotted the Old Toll House. We pulled in to the large car park at the rear, plenty of room and an easy drive out at the other side – wonderful. Inside, it was very comfortable, the service was great and the food fantastic. I couldn’t help noticing two clocks on the wall, one labelled Scotland and the other, England – both showing the same time. When I asked the owner why, she said that it was so she could let people see the difference between the two countries! Contrary to popular belief, Hadrian’s Wall does not mark the border between England and Scotland – it lies entirely within England. It only marks where the Romans chose to build their wall. We had decided to base ourselves at one campsite for our stay, the Hadrian’s Wall Camping & Caravan Site. This lies just up the hill from Melkridge, to the west of Haltwhistle. Perfectly placed, we thought, as it’s pretty close to the wall. We booked ahead and they had a lovely spot waiting for us, right alongside the little duck pond.
Camping near the wall
We were shown around the site by the owner, Peter, who also introduced us to some of the resident ducks. Graham, a large white duck with a tufty topknot, seemed to be in charge. One mother duck had six very small ducklings, while another had four larger ones. They are all extremely tame, so we needed to keep Angus and William on short leads when we were out and about. The wall took six years to build, starting in AD 122. Originally 74 miles long and 16-20ft high, it ran from the west coast, at Bowness-on-solway, all the way to the east, at Wallsend. At one-mile intervals,
there were small fortifications, known as milecastles – lookout points, really – with a garrisoned fort about every five miles. Attached to these forts were settlements inhabited by local civilians. Today, only a few sections of the wall remain visible, but the sheer scale of the enterprise is astounding. If you’re a keen walker, you can hike its entire length on a National Trail. It’s also now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Publius Aelius Hadrianus (alias Hadrian) was generally considered a good guy: not a fighting emperor, but one of consolidation and protection. He visited most of the vast Roman Empire during his reign, including Britain. He initiated construction of the wall to “separate the Romans from the Barbarians”. Apparently, he also thought it was the cheaper option to protect the border. By the end of AD 122, Hadrian concluded his visit to Britain – he never saw the finished wall that bears his name. There is a lot to see around here, so we worked out a schedule to be certain we wouldn’t miss anything. Our first port of call was the Roman Army Museum. The B6318 runs alongside the wall from Gilsland in the east to Heddon-on-the-wall, so getting about is very straightforward. We turned west along the B road and within a couple of miles, found the museum. Here we bought our saver ticket, which gives a small discount on the entrance fee for the museum and the other site, Vindolanda. This compact museum was well laid out and really interesting. The Roman army were the first to pay their men for fighting. Most of the soldiers were Roman citizens under the age of 45, divided into legions – groups of 100 men. But they also had auxiliaries, non-romans who brought different skills to the army. In charge of each legion was a centurion. The legionaries and auxiliaries wore different uniforms, while the centurions could be distinguished in battle by the crest of feathers or fur on their helmets. The museum has some very 21stcentury displays, and we enjoyed visiting the Latin Classroom, where a teacher from the past puts in an appearance! However, the best part was the stunning 3D movie, Edge of Empire. This only lasts about 20 minutes, but gives you an eagle’s eye view and real insight into the ancient imperial past. We were so impressed with the whole presentation of the museum, we just had to buy ourselves a souvenir – a little centurion helmet. Then, just a couple of miles in the other direction along the B road, there it was: Vindolanda. This fort was constructed long before the wall and was an important garrison for the soldiers guarding it. The archaeological site is vast, covering the whole hillside and, during the summer months, they are still excavating parts of it. As you wander around, you can clearly see parts of the fort and the remains of the town beside it. They even had a centralheating system, as well as drainage. At one side of the fort, the charitable trust that looks after the site has built a milecastle, which you can walk around, so you get a real feeling of what it would have been like to keep watch on the wall.
‘Today, only a few sections of the wall still remain visible, but the sheer scale of the enterprise is astounding’
Vindolanda’s amazing museum is a little walk down the hillside. This houses a fine collection of Roman footwear, textiles, militaria and personal items, along with one of Britain’s greatest treasures, the Writing Tablets. These Roman ‘postcards’ are thin slivers of wood with ink writing, giving a glimpse of daily life in the fort.
Dramatic forts and priories
Next day dawned hot and sunny, so we set off to explore Birdoswald Fort. The fort and settlement sit at the side of the longest remaining visible stretch of the wall. Although it is obviously no longer at its full height or width, you can appreciate the achievement of those Roman builders. This is a good destination for a family day out, with lots to entertain the children – we liked the outdoor xylophone! Later that day, we visited Lanercost Priory, a dramatic and beautiful church founded in the 12th century. We were getting tired by then, so it was time to stop for coffee and some delicious home-made cake at Barks & Brew, where dogs and their well-behaved owners are welcome. Water and biscuits for the dogs were laid on in the café. Then we were off exploring again, at Housesteads Roman Fort, where you can wander through the barrack blocks and view the remains of the hospital – and the oldest toilets you’ll probably ever see. Chesters Fort is a well-preserved Roman cavalry fortress, with a bath house and steam room. You can imagine the soldiers relaxing here after coming off duty, then having a meal and a night on the town! We must have walked miles, and there was still so much to see, but sadly, our time was running out. It seems that by the fifth century AD, the same was happening for the Romans. Emperor Honorius decided that all of the legions in Britain were needed elsewhere and it was time the locals started to look out for themselves – so they left. We left too, reluctantly – but unlike the Romans, we plan to return and continue our explorations. Top marks to the people who are preserving this history for us all.