Practical Caravan

Abandoned pegs? Sam Coles can help

Pitching up, the last thing you want to be doing is struggling to remove the previous occupants’ abandoned pegs. Sam Coles has the solution

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THERE HAVE BEEN any number of times when I’ve arrived at a pitch, only to be confronted by awning pegs still in the ground, left there by previous occupants. Having hammered in their pegs, they find that they can’t get them out when they are ready to depart, so they just give up and leave them behind. The pegs are invariably in the way for the next occupants of the pitch, and the main option has been to hammer them right into the ground until they are flush. However, I have also been forced to abandon pegs that have locked themselves solid in the ground and won’t come out, for love nor money. So, what to do? The main culprits here are the widely used (because they are good and work well) 25cm nail-style pegs that have a plastic collar on top. These are made from hardened steel, and are the only type that perform well in hard ground conditions – the bent-wire type just curl up and die. There are commercial­ly available tentpeg pullers, but they only seem to cater for the curly wire or plastic variety of peg. The nail type are not catered for (or if they are, I have yet to find one). With that in mind, this project details what I consider to be a practical solution to the problem. This tent-peg puller is of robust design (bordering on being overengine­ered, for which I make no apologies!) and will help you to extract a nail-style peg with ease, irrespecti­ve of the type of ground that it’s been hammered into. This tool also has three fulcrum points, allowing it to deal with pegs that put up a fight until the last inch. Although it has been designed mainly for extracting nail-style pegs, it could be adapted for use with other pegs by profiling the lever end accordingl­y, or by having multiple levers if an assortment of different pegs is being used.

Materials

0.5m of 20mm x 20mm x 2.5mm wall thickness box-section mild steel

1m of 25mm x 25mm x 3mm mild steel mangle section

Three M8 x 55 steel bolts

Nine M8 steel nuts

Two M6 x 12 steel bolts

Two M6 nuts

Two M4 x 6 cap-head screws

One 22mm bicycle handgrip

Spray primer and matte-black paint

Tools

Hacksaw

Square with 45-degree facility

Marker pen Cordless drill and metal bits

Centre punch

Hammer

Two mole-style grips

Round and flat files

M4 tap and tap wrench

Two 13mm spanners

Two 10mm spanners

3mm AF hex key

Thread lock

Masking tape

Skills

Basic metalwork

Time

Three hours

Cost

Approximat­ely £20

What I learnt

How to craft metal and tap threads.

 ??  ?? This awning-peg puller makes removal so much easier
This awning-peg puller makes removal so much easier
 ??  ?? 4 Using grips, clamp the two pieces of steel together as shown, then drill through three points using 3mm drill
4 Using grips, clamp the two pieces of steel together as shown, then drill through three points using 3mm drill
 ??  ?? 1 First, cut two pieces of angled steel, each measuring 210mm as shown
1 First, cut two pieces of angled steel, each measuring 210mm as shown
 ??  ?? 2 Put masking tape on one inner surface of one piece of steel. Mark centre line and points at 50mm, 120mm and 190mm
2 Put masking tape on one inner surface of one piece of steel. Mark centre line and points at 50mm, 120mm and 190mm
 ??  ?? 3 Centre pot the three marks
3 Centre pot the three marks
 ??  ?? 5 Enlarge holes using 8mm drill
5 Enlarge holes using 8mm drill
 ??  ?? 18 Centre pot then drill both holes with 3.5mm drill. Tap M4 thread in each
18 Centre pot then drill both holes with 3.5mm drill. Tap M4 thread in each
 ??  ?? 9 The bottom member after marking up. Note marked-up area on bottom of the two side members, with centre identified
9 The bottom member after marking up. Note marked-up area on bottom of the two side members, with centre identified
 ??  ?? 19 M4 x 6 cap-head screws, placed temporaril­y in tapped holes, used to locate lever on support fulcrum bolt
19 M4 x 6 cap-head screws, placed temporaril­y in tapped holes, used to locate lever on support fulcrum bolt
 ??  ?? 8 Temporaril­y assemble side members with M8 x 55 bolts and nuts as shown. Place 130mm strip of steel centrally, and mark either side of side members
8 Temporaril­y assemble side members with M8 x 55 bolts and nuts as shown. Place 130mm strip of steel centrally, and mark either side of side members
 ??  ?? The completed peg puller!
The completed peg puller!
 ??  ?? 17 Mark up 20mm x 20mm box steel at 110mm and 130mm, as shown
17 Mark up 20mm x 20mm box steel at 110mm and 130mm, as shown
 ??  ?? 12 Measure and cut away 45-degree sections from support bottom
12 Measure and cut away 45-degree sections from support bottom
 ??  ?? 11 Clamp together with M6 x 12 bolt, then drill other side in same way
11 Clamp together with M6 x 12 bolt, then drill other side in same way
 ??  ?? 13 Mark 45-degree angle on end of 20mm x 20mm steel box section
13 Mark 45-degree angle on end of 20mm x 20mm steel box section
 ??  ?? 6 The two pieces of steel after drilling. These form side bits of the puller
6 The two pieces of steel after drilling. These form side bits of the puller
 ??  ?? 7 Cut a 130mm piece of angled steel. This forms bottom member of puller
7 Cut a 130mm piece of angled steel. This forms bottom member of puller
 ??  ?? 10 Clamp the bottom member on one side, then centre pot and drill through the opposite centre with 3mm pilot drill, before enlarging to 6mm
10 Clamp the bottom member on one side, then centre pot and drill through the opposite centre with 3mm pilot drill, before enlarging to 6mm
 ??  ?? 16 End of peg located in slot
16 End of peg located in slot
 ??  ?? 15 Using a round file, make a slot in the end. This should comfortabl­y accommodat­e the end of the steel peg
15 Using a round file, make a slot in the end. This should comfortabl­y accommodat­e the end of the steel peg
 ??  ?? 14 Using the hacksaw and file, create a profile as shown
14 Using the hacksaw and file, create a profile as shown

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