What to see and do…
Here are just some of the things you can enjoy near Ord House
THE A1 FORMS the artery for reaching the main attractions on the Northumberland coast. I began at Berwick-upon-tweed, parking in the long-term free car park just off the curiously named Foul Ford. As a border town, Berwick was captured 13 times before being held by the English in the late 15th century – hence the Elizabethan bastions. They are impressive, and if you are interested in military history, you will find the gun emplacements fascinating; but they are high and sheer, so little ones will need watching closely. Along the wall, you will find Berwick Barracks and Main Guard. Today, the early 18th-century building is home to museums and art galleries. The nearby Church of the Holy Trinity and St Mary, one of the few parish churches built in Cromwell’s time, used stone from the ruined Berwick Castle. Look out for the church’s very fine rose window with a lamb at its centre. There is a good parking area between the church and the barracks.
Holy Island
My timing was bad for my first attempt to visit Holy Island. It’s a half-hour drive from Ord House Country Park, but when I arrived water was already lapping at the causeway, so instead I popped into The Barn at Beal for bangers and mash. There’s also a café here, for coffee and cake, and a gift shop selling honey and Lindisfarne Mead. My timing was better next day, although the causeway was still under a little water in some places, and I drove with extra care. Visitors are encouraged to park in the large pay and display car park. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Lindisfarne Priory and 20 minutes to the castle, but you pass several cafés, a pub and a National Trust shop along the way, as well as the home of Lindisfarne Mead. The Priory ruins, looked after by English Heritage, are beautiful and the statue of St Aidan very thought-provoking. If you make it to the castle, you can see what became the holiday home of Edward Hudson, founder of Country Life magazine. This 16th-century fort was transformed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Gertrude Jekyll in the early 20th century.
Bamburgh Castle
I approached Bamburgh via the B1342, passing the very scenic Budle Bay. The sudden sighting of the castle comes as quite a shock: it is huge. The present edifice was built from red sandstone in the 12th century, but a castle existed on this volcanic outcrop from the sixth century, the seat of Northumbrian kings. You can see the Farne Islands from the castle, and on less windy days, take a boat trip to the islands. It was definitely a holdonto-your-hat kind of day when I visited. Don’t miss the museum, which tells the story of Victorian engineer, inventor and philanthropist Lord Armstrong, who bought Bamburgh Castle in 1894 and carried out a 10-year restoration project. Bamburgh is also home to the Grace Darling Museum, which tells the story of the famously heroic sea rescue.
Seahouses and Farne Islands
I was surprised by the size of Seahouses. The large village grew up around the lime and fishing industries, mainly herring, in the late 19th century. Fishing is still an important part of the local economy, but for tourists, this is the embarkation point for the wildlife-rich Farne Islands. The windy weather meant the harbour was full of fishing boats and the cruise vessels that take visitors to see the seals, puffins, shags, kittiwakes, cormorants, razorbills and terns. Four companies offer boat trips but, out of the 28 islands, only three can be landed on, and this depends on the time of year.