Practical Caravan

How to… fit a recessed fire extinguish­er

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WHEN IT COMES to your fire extinguish­er, the Caravan and Motorhome Club recommends installing a 1 kg aqueous film forming foam (AFFF) device manufactur­ed and tested in accordance with BS EN 3 and with at least a 5A rating. This is a bulky object and, while it must be easily accessible for instant use, it’s best if you’re not constantly knocking into it as you pass through the van. My solution to this problem is to recess it into a convenient­ly positioned cupboard in an open-front plywood box. I used some small offcuts of 8mm ply which provided the necessary rigidity for this heavy object without adding excessive weight. Start by carefully measuring your extinguish­er and cutting out the plywood sides, back and base. You can temporaril­y clamp these together to check the size. Remember to make allowance for the angle trims which you will fit round the opening later. These may be hardwood or aluminium (which is much thinner). Glue the plywood box pieces together using PVA wood glue and clamp them overnight. Make sure you leave the roof of the box off at this stage, and leave some extra length, as it’s best to cut the top section off at 45 degrees to make access to the extinguish­er easier. Trim and sand the box before positionin­g it against the wall to mark where your oblong access hole will need to be cut out. This hole has to be a short distance from obstructio­ns to allow clearance for the jigsaw’s baseplate. Any cupboard shelves may need to be temporaril­y removed. Apply a double layer of wide masking tape to the outside of the cupboard. This will protect the surface from the jigsaw. Then, measure inside and outside so the hole can be marked on the outside for cutting. Once you’ve double-checked your markings, drill a hole in each corner to allow access for the jigsaw blade. To prevent jigsaw damage, be sure to hold the baseplate firmly against the surface, and don’t lift it up until the motor comes to a complete rest. Once you’ve cut your oblong out of the cupboard side, use a file to true up the corners and remove any bumps. Small imperfecti­ons don’t matter, as the edges will be covered with the angle trims after you’ve installed the box. Your box can now be varnished inside and out, but remember to leave the mating edge bare as that will help the glue to hold better. Placing temporary plastic fingers along the edge of the hole will help you position your box more accurately inside the cupboard. Once your extinguish­er is in place the box will be heavy, so don’t rely totally on adhesive to attach it. Use some long, thin screws from the front into the edge of the ply box so that the screw heads will be covered by the edge trims. Remember that PVA does not stick well to nonporous surfaces so, if your van has the usual PVC wood-effect finish, use a cartridge adhesive such as ‘I Can’t Believe It’s Not Nails’. Try a small test first on the offcut of ply. A mitre power saw is ideal for cutting timber or aluminium angles, which can also be fixed using the adhesive. Job done! ■ Before undertakin­g DIY projects, double check that any warranty won’t be affected

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 ??  ?? 1 Glue the recessed box with PVA wood glue and clamp it overnight. The upper section has not yet been cut 2 Mark out the access hole in the cupboard side onto masking tape and drill a hole in each corner. When cutting, always keep the jigsaw breastplat­e firmly against the surface 3 The end result, after 20 x 20mm of anodised aluminium angle has been fitted
1 Glue the recessed box with PVA wood glue and clamp it overnight. The upper section has not yet been cut 2 Mark out the access hole in the cupboard side onto masking tape and drill a hole in each corner. When cutting, always keep the jigsaw breastplat­e firmly against the surface 3 The end result, after 20 x 20mm of anodised aluminium angle has been fitted
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