Weekender: North Wales
North Wales proved the ideal location for a short break with family and friends, Janette Sykes found
Janette Sykes discovered the ideal location for enjoying a short break with family and friends
PICKING THE PERFECT campsite and holiday destination for a group of family and friends aged from two to 74 could be fraught with pitfalls.
There are so many things to think about, ranging from suitable leisure facilities and interesting activities to keep the youngsters happy, to gentle strolls and sightseeing for the seniors – not to mention the needs of two very lively dogs.
When we plan a half-term break with our wider family group, we tend to head off to trusted and loved destinations such as the Lake District, but this time we fancied a change. North Wales was always a favourite choice for holidays during my childhood, and is only a couple of hours’ comfortable drive from our home in the Peak District, so the ideal spot for a long weekend away.
Campsite choices
My brother, my nephew, his friend and their families did some research and settled on Bron Derw Touring Caravan Park for families and Parc Derwen Touring Caravan Park, exclusively for adults, near the ancient market town of Llanrwst.
Nestling between the North Wales Coast and the Snowdonia National Park, off the A470 in the picturesque Vale of Conwy,
‘Although we were surrounded by mountains, we sensibly stuck to the lower pastures and woodland’
this site, which has three touring caravan parks, is a hidden gem, boasting excellent facilities and sweeping mountain views.
The grandparents, parents and children (10 in total) stayed on the Bron Derw site, while we headed slightly uphill to check in at Parc Derwen, just a couple of minutes’ walk away, and conveniently close to the dedicated dog-walk.
Great facilities
Both sites are run by the same family, and there’s also a Caravan and Motorhome Club CL near the main reception area.
One of the principal attractions for us was the multi-serviced hardstanding pitches with 16A hook-up, which made life much easier for everyone.
We were totally charmed to find there is a dog-shower in the well-equipped utility block at Parc Derwen – extremely useful after a muddy walk!
We received a friendly, helpful welcome and after setting up our vans and awnings, we couldn’t wait to get out and about in the countryside. My nephew was given the task of finding a walk that would suit everyone.
He came up trumps with a five-mile circular walk, starting and ending at Capel Curig, just nine miles away on the A5 in the Snowdonia National Park.
Although we were surrounded by really impressive mountains, we sensibly stuck to the lower pastures and woodland alongside the beautiful river Llugwy, with its fast flowing waters and mini-cascades.
A welcome stop on the way was the family- and dog-friendly Tyn-y-coed Inn, a former coaching inn, which has cosy open fires, offers family accommodation and bases its menu on Welsh produce sourced from local suppliers.
Right next to the river, it also boasts an original stagecoach, which once linked Holyhead and London, and spectacular views across Moel Siabod.
After a brisk afternoon’s walk, we were all ready to celebrate two birthdays and
a wedding anniversary with a family dinner at The Eagles Hotel, just half a mile from the campsite in the centre of Llanrwst.
It’s not easy to choose a venue that suits everyone in a group of 12, but we seemed to manage it, thanks to the good selection of starters and mains on offer, including steak, Welsh lamb, burgers, fish, vegetarian options and a children’s menu.
Next day saw a parting of the ways, with the younger adults and children heading off for an exhilarating mountain bike ride and some lessons at Surf Snowdonia, in the heart of the National Park.
We took the leisurely option, joining my brother and sister-in-law for a scenic circular drive from Llanrwst to Conwy, with its historic castle, and then on to Caernarfon, via Penmaenmawr, Llanfairfechan and Bangor.
Conwy and Caernarfon
We could have opted to take the main A470 and A55 to Conwy, but instead chose the quieter route on the western bank of the River Conwy, along the B5106, through Trefriw, with its woollen mills, and the village of Tal-y-bont, skirting the fringes of Snowdonia.
At Conwy, we took a left turn at the Upper Gate in the town walls to take the little-known, most northerly pass in the National Park, Sychnant. The translation of its name, ‘Dry Valley’, might make this seem a touch mundane, but the views down to Dwygyfylchi and the Irish Sea are truly spectacular and well worth a detour.
On reaching Caernarfon, we headed east over the wild and windswept landscapes of the Llanberis Pass. Llanberis itself proved a good choice for a lunch stop, where we enjoyed sandwiches and local beer at dog-friendly café/bar The Heights.
Back on the road, we continued west to Capel Curig and Betws-y-coed, arriving in mid-afternoon to visit Swallow Falls, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Wales and a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest.
The name of the spectacular cascades on the River Llugwy dates back to the 18th century, and was thought to refer to the way in which the water resembled the tail of a swallow, where a large rock divided the flow into two streams.
In Victorian times, the falls became a popular tourist destination, renamed by Welsh-speakers who reinterpreted ‘y Wennol’ (the swallow) as ‘Ewynnol’,
‘Sychnant, which translates as Dry Valley, is actually spectacular, with views across to the Irish Sea’
meaning ‘foaming’. Whatever the origins of their name, the falls are certainly an impressive sight, reached through a rather quaint turnstile, which proved slightly difficult to negotiate with a large dog!
The steps down to the viewpoint are also rather steep, but the reward is worth it.
We were lucky enough to visit after a period of heavy rain and the falls were in full spate, tumbling dramatically in the direction of Betws-y-coed, two miles away.
Betws-y-coed, known as the Gateway to Snowdonia, is an excellent place to stop and sample local food and drink at a range of cafés, bistros, restaurants and pubs, or browse in small independent shops and art and craft galleries.
History and heritage
On our final day in Wales, we all decided to join together to experience some local history and heritage, and having previously been to Conwy and Caernarfon Castles, plumped for the National Trust’s Penrhyn Castle, at Bangor. In truth, this isn’t a real castle, although at first sight, it does look forbidding and austere. Built in the 19th century for the Pennant family, who made their fortune from Jamaican sugar and the local slate, it’s the epitome of Victorian opulence and grandeur on a vast scale.
The Pennants once presided over the world’s largest slate quarry, also the setting for the Great Strike of 1900-1903, when the quarrymen tried to protect their union rights.
Penrhyn also holds one of the country’s finest collections of Old Masters, and hosted a visit by Queen Victoria, who stayed in the sumptuous State Bedroom and Dressing Room in 1859.
The brass bed in the King’s Bedroom was used by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, in 1894, and the Slate Bedroom features an imposing carved slate bed.
Gardens galore
The huge house has commanding views of Snowdonia and the North Wales coastline, and its extensive grounds include a walled garden, chapel garden, bog garden and adventure playground, where youngsters can burn off excess energy. Dogs on leads are welcome everywhere, except the castle and walled garden.
We had planned to end our break with a bracing walk along the promenade and buying practical jokes and other seaside novelties on the pier at Llandudno – but that will have to wait until next time!
‘Betws-y-coed is an excellent place to sample local food and drink, or browse in shops and galleries’