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or Glasgow’s modern cool, but this is a city with its own particular vibe, and a fine introduction to Scotland.
Whether you then head west or north is down to you, but here, we look at a route that goes west. This takes in the infamous Bealach na Bà road towards Applecross – one to avoid when you are towing a caravan.
This road is single-track with numerous hairpin bends, surrounded by gorgeous views of Scotland’s mountains. It’s not a road for inexperienced drivers, but it is a great introduction to the special qualities of the NC500.
The Lyles pitched at Sands Caravan & Camping Site, at Gairloch, and explored Applecross and the local area by car. If you do brave the road, stop at The Applecross Inn for some of the best fish and chips in the country.
Mountain splendour
Take the A832, which can be narrow in places, to the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve, for spectacular views of mountain landscapes. Villages such as Gairloch, where ferries to the Isle of Skye can be boarded, or Poolewe, alongside Loch Ewe, are a pleasure to explore, but your ultimate destination at this point is Ullapool.
On the way you’ll begin to spot the biggest surprise: white sandy beaches and turquoise waters, of the sort you’d expect in the Caribbean – but decidedly cooler. Gruinard Bay is a common stop for this very reason, but all the way to Ullapool and beyond, you’ll find yourself tempted to pause for a stroll along the beach.
If you’re looking for a bit of musical culture, it’s worth planning your trip around a visit to Ullapool. Over time
‘As you plan, remember that the NC500 is great at slowing you down’
CDit has built up a reputation as a centre for music and the arts, with a number of festivals throughout the years that have attracted a variety of big names.
From here, the route will take you north, diverting west alongside Loch Assynt and Ardvreck Castle. If you are in a car, there are a number of points to consider as you head towards the top point of Durness, from picking up a pie at the Lochinver Larder to taking a detour to Handa Island in the hopes of spotting puffins.
There are also two more popular beaches en route – Achmelvich and Clachtoll – that are considered among the best in Britain. Towing a caravan, you should avoid the B869 Drumbeg Road and take the A894 towards Durness. You’ll still be witness to some extraordinary lunar-like scenery as you follow the road north.
Strolling on the sands
Once at Durness, you’ll begin heading east, but don’t be afraid to spend a bit longer in the town. For another sandy stroll, there’s Balnakeil – yes, Scotland really is full of beaches – while the town itself is popular for two main attractions. The first is Smoo Cave, which features a number of interesting natural phenomena. The second is Cocoa Mountain, a chocolatier and the perfect place for a sugary pick-me-up.
Having now done about half of the trip, it’s back on the road towards John O’groats, although you might want to stop off in Thurso if you’re a fan of surfing and are brave enough for the cold waters of north Scotland. The lighthouse at Dunnet Head is your ultimate goal,
Ebecause it’s the northernmost point in the country, but you could also opt for another diversion to the Orkney Islands, whether that’s to see Kirkwall or the seals that make the islands their home.
Having covered the majority of the NC500’S coastline, at this point it’s time to head south towards Inverness. For many, this is the most exciting part of the trip – the area of the route with the most distilleries. If whisky, or perhaps gin, is one of your reasons to visit Scotland, this is the part of the trip you’ll want to focus most of your time on. Don’t forget you’ll need a designated driver!
Castles and cathedrals
This doesn’t mean there isn’t more of Scotland to see, of course. Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, near Wick, is one of the more intriguing castles in the country, mainly because of its position atop a cliffside, but there are a host of picturesque places worth stopping at, such as Dunrobin Castle, Dornoch, and the 2000-year-old structure at Carn Liath.
In addition, a special mention should go to the Black Isle, the peninsula jutting out to the east of the official NC500 route, where you’ll find a craft beer brewery, a ruined cathedral and the best place to spot dolphins in the country, at Cromarty.
The drama of the Highlands might be behind you as you head back to Inverness, but regardless of the route you decide to take – and the distractions that catch your eye – there’s no doubt that you’ll have learnt quite a bit more about Scotland and the Scots on your travels.
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