Colin Burdett enjoys the traditional seaside resorts and stunning scenery of beautiful Dorset
For a combination of seaside resorts and idyllic scenery, you can’t beat Dorset, says Colin Burdett
Last year, having decided on a summer holiday in this country, rather than our usual destination, France, the next question was to choose where to go. We love being within easy reach of the sea, and we also enjoy exploring the countryside, so we eventually opted for the beautiful county of Dorset, on the south coast. After setting up our outfit at South Lytchett Manor Caravan and Camping Park, a quick look at the map showed us that this multi-award-winning site occupies a near perfect location, being only about 10 minutes’ drive from the A35 dual carriageway, which provides excellent access both east and west.
Head south and we found that Poole was only about five miles away, so the latter had to be our first port of call, to stock up with some provisions. We made the 15-minute drive to a superstore conveniently located on the outskirts of town. Shopping completed, it was time to take our first peek at Poole Harbour!
Wander the waterfront
The town was looking its best in the late afternoon sunshine and we enjoyed wandering on the waterfront, watching the colourful ferry boats taking visitors backwards and forwards to Brownsea Island, now owned by the National Trust.
This island is the largest of the many within the huge natural harbour of Poole, and is popular with visitors. Part of it has restricted access as a nature reserve managed by Dorset Wildlife Trust. Perhaps one of its most popular residents is the native red squirrel, which has continued to thrive on the island, largely because no non-native grey squirrels were introduced here.
After a welcome cup of tea, sitting outside a café on the waterfront, we walked down to the marina, which is home to a small collection of fishing boats, as well as the more usual yachts and leisure craft.
Nestling on one side of the marina is the Lifeboat Museum. Housed in the former lifeboat station is one of Poole’s historic rescue vessels, the Thomas Kirk Wright, together with a small gift shop.
Crabbing in the harbour
Back along the promenade we passed several families, busy trying to catch crabs with simple lines dropped over the side of the harbour wall. Peering into their assorted buckets, we could see that most had been quite successful, although the small size of these crabs meant they were destined to be returned to the murky harbour waters, rather than heading for the cooking pot at home! Lots of fun, however, and a great way to pass the time while on holiday with youngsters.
Across the water on the other side of the harbour, we spotted the Sunseeker factory, which is home to the manufacturer of luxury motor yachts. Several examples were stored on the quayside, while others were moored alongside the factory. All looked much more expensive than our house, car and caravan put together, but it was pleasant to dream!
It was time to head back to the van and enjoy our first meal of the holiday. The sun was still shining, and on a lovely summer’s evening, we soon had the barbecue going, with the smells wafting into the balmy air soon attracting a few envious comments!
The next day, the forecast was good, although we did encounter some morning mist as we headed off on the A35. Having skirted around Dorchester, we were soon
‘The town was looking its best in the afternoon sunshine and we enjoyed watching the ferry boats’
driving through the countryside towards the traditional seaside resort of Weymouth. We parked some way from the centre, so that we could enjoy a walk along the promenade before reaching this charming town.
We soon spotted the impressive Jubilee Clock Tower, established on the seafront in 1888 to commemorate Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Then a little further on, at the start of the main shopping area, is the King’s Statue, an equally grand tribute to George III.
The statue, flanked by a golden lion and a unicorn, was originally erected in honour of George’s frequent visits to the town – much of the fine architecture along the promenade is of Georgian origin.
Picnic on the beach
By the time we had explored the shopping centre, it was time for lunch and we headed back to the seafront to enjoy a picnic overlooking the beach. Walking back along the esplanade, we stopped to admire another Victorian edifice, the Royal Hotel.
On our way back to the campsite, we decided to call in and explore some of Dorchester’s old town centre; but on the way we passed Poundbury, a purpose-built community of shops, housing and industrial units built on land owned by the Duchy of Cornwall.
Prince Charles has had a long-standing interest in the creation of this suburb of Dorchester, forsaking modern architecture in favour of recreating buildings of a more classical design. Widely derided when it began, the community has endured and prospered, with an increasing number of younger families moving in, and others transferring down from London, seeking a more rural way of life.
We enjoyed taking a stroll around the older part of Dorchester, and having browsed in some of the many interesting shops, we stopped for afternoon tea at a delightful café hidden away in an ancient building known as Napper’s Mite, which served as almshouses in the 17th century.
Plenty to see and do
There is so much to see and do in and around this ancient market town, we decided to spend another day visiting here before too long. For now, however, the shops were closing and it was time to head back to the caravan and put our feet up.
We are keen supporters of the National Trust and a quick perusal of our map revealed a Trust property close by – Kingston Lacy House. A half-hour drive north through attractive countryside brought us to the well-to-do market town of Wimborne Minster.
Kingston Lacy is only about 1.5 miles further on, so we navigated our way through the town and soon came across the rolling grounds of this grand country house. We parked and headed for the entrance, but by now the sun was beating down, and of course, yours truly had managed to forget his hat; so a quick visit to the gift shop was required, to acquire an NT baseball cap!
The house was home to the Bankes family, owners of more than 400 acres of Dorset countryside for over
w400 years. Originally the family lived at nearby Corfe Castle, but they moved to Kingston Lacy after the castle was destroyed in the Civil War.
Built between 1663 and 1665 by Ralph Bankes, the house remained in the family until it was bequeathed to the National Trust (along with Corfe Castle) when Henry Bankes died in 1982.
The house sits in a dominating position in formal gardens, which lead to landscaped parklands. It is full of antiquities, bought mainly by William John Bankes during his travels to the Middle East and Asia. A fine art collection is also on display and includes works by Van Dyck, Rubens and Titian.
Shady woodlands
After touring the house, we headed to the restaurant, where we enjoyed a snack sitting in the courtyard of what was the old stable block. It was really getting hot by now, so our stroll around the grounds became a case of seeking out the shady woodland walks!
By mid-afternoon we were beginning to wilt, so we headed back to the campsite, in anticipation of a cold beer and an evening barbecue.
We spent the following day around the site, enjoying the local walks nearby. Just next door, located in some old farm buildings, we discovered The Courtyard Craft Centre, where local people have small shops displaying handmade gifts and other goods.
Also located here is Dylan’s Café, which proved very popular with caravanners seeking a traditional cooked breakfast, judging by the number of people who trekked past our van each morning!
Our next journey off-site took us to the pretty seaside town of Swanage. This popular place is a reminder of all those family holidays we took in our childhood, with a line of deckchairs along the promenade and families paddling in the sea.
Golden age of steam
We parked some way from the town centre and strolled along the esplanade, and while Elaine was drawn to the shops, I was drawn towards the old Railway Station, by the sound of an approaching steam train!
By the time we had walked down to the platform, the train had arrived and was preparing for the return trip through the countryside past Corfe Castle, en route to its final stop at Norden near Wareham. The station recreates the feel of the golden age of steam, complete with vintage luggage stacked on the platform, waiting for the next porter to appear.
However, having arrived in Swanage by car, we could not simply hop on the next train, unfortunately, so we retraced our steps back through the town, and ate our picnic lunch while sitting overlooking the beach on the Banjo Pier – so named because of its shape.
Our journey back to the site took us through the picture-postcard village of Corfe Castle, where we parked up to explore. Spotting the Greyhound Inn, we dived into the cool interior, but then discovered its delightful beer garden. Armed with refreshing
‘Swanage is a reminder of all those family holidays in our childhood’
soft drinks, we relaxed in the late afternoon sunshine, overlooked by the imposing castle ruins.
Our final trip for this visit took us back to Wimborne Minster. This pretty market town has a very attractive central square, surrounded by shops, pubs and cafés. As the name suggests, the focal point here is the Saxon church, which is famous for its chained library and the tomb of King Ethelred, brother of Alfred the Great.
Art Deco and a model town
Historic buildings in Wimborne Minster date from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, and as a result of local planning restrictions, these ancient structures have been well preserved.
As well as being home to the beautiful Art Deco Tivoli Theatre, the town also has one of the largest, oldest model towns in England. Depicting Wimborne as it was in the 1950s when the model was built, this is an accurate 1/10 scale, and peering into the shop windows, you can even see goods that were on sale in the life-size shops of the time.
We parked in one of the town centre car parks and a five-minute stroll brought us to the main square and the aptly named Café in the Square. While all the seats outside were taken, we were more than happy to head inside for the relative cool and shade.
Suitably refreshed, Elaine headed off to explore the shops while I wandered around, taking photographs of the local landmarks that would help to remind us of a pleasant break enjoyed on home ground.