ERECTING AN AWNING
It’s easy when you know how!
1 The most difficult part of an awning build can be feeding the cord through the awning rail, so consider lubricating the rail with some silicone spray.
2 Always try to erect your awning in dry weather, although an advantage of air awnings is the speed at which you establish the basic waterproof structure. With practice, you could have the shell inflated in just four to seven minutes.
3 To keep your awning clean, roll out your awning carpet close to the end of the caravan, where you’ll start feeding the cord into the rail.
4 Now empty the awning out of the bag onto the carpet, and unroll it.
5 Position it so that the correct end is close to the slot where the cord slides into the awning rail.
6 At this point, check your awning is the right way around! On one occasion, I had the cord halfway through the rail before realising I’d got it wrong. It can be tricky, with seemingly acres of similar- coloured fabric.
7 A full awning will need to feed into the rail right at the start of the track, normally low down on the end of the caravan. However, porch awnings can be fed into the rail higher up (there’s usually a choice of entry points), because this minimises the distance they have to be pulled through.
8 Pull the cord through the rail by its reinforced tab, if it has one. If it jams, check the cord isn’t kinked where it enters the rail.
9 Rather than balancing on the caravan step and stretching as you pull the cord through the rail (it’s like evil yoga), consider using a length of cord tied through the tab eyelet, to pull it through. This will allow you to stand on the ground.
10 Alternatively, you could invest in the Kampa Easy Awning Pulley (from £21.99), a simple device designed to help you pull the cord through the rail with least effort.
The pulley lets you stand at the end of the rail to feed in the cord while pulling it through, making it truly a one-person job.
11 A full awning will have to be pulled all the way through the rail, filling the entire length, while a porch awning will only cover part of the van side, depending on its size.
12 Once the porch awning cord is in the rail, slide it along so it’s in the correct position, covering the door, but if you’ve bought wisely, not covering half of a window, which looks odd and stops the window being opened.
13 If your porch awning crosses a window, invest in the draught-sealing systems that are offered by most manufacturers.
14 Once in position, peg the awning down, but only at the two points nearest to the side of the caravan. Insert any insulating/protection pads, ensuring a good fit.
15 Another advantage of air awnings is that there are usually no poles to accidentally scratch the side of your beloved caravan.
16 Now it’s time to inflate an air awning, or start your pole build. Before commencing, make sure that your awning is spread out in roughly the correct position.
17 With an air awning, next, locate the pump valve for the main structure, attach the pump (electric or manual) and start the inflation process, ensuring that manual pumps are on the ‘blow’ setting.
18 Within a few actions, the awning will start to expand and take shape. Most have pressure-release valves, designed to prevent over-inflation. When you hear air hissing out of the valve, disconnect the pump and seal the valve.
19 You now have a basic waterproof structure, so on a wet day you can do much of the remaining build under cover.
20 With a pole awning, you will need to follow the instructions provided, at least until you know exactly what you’re doing. Clearly, this goes against every natural instinct for most of us, but believe me, it will save you a great deal of time and frustration in the end!
21 Follow the build step-by-step, taking care not to catch the side of the van with the poles. With practice, you’ll soon have the basic structure up and ready for adjustment.
22 With the structure in place, it’s time to peg down. Zip the door closed and work out from the van wall on each side, ensuring that the awning material is kept tight.
23 On uneven or bumpy pitches, you’ll find that air awnings ‘absorb’ undulations quite easily, thanks to their flexibility.
Pole awnings, however, will require more careful adjustment, to ensure a good ‘seal’ all the way around the base. Once done, they often look better.
24 Pole adjustment systems vary, so take the time to learn how yours works.
25 If you’re expecting bad weather and high winds, consider fitting your storm straps.
26 With the awning structure firmly pegged in place, you can add any reinforcing poles or beams. Air awnings will often have several of these in the roof structure. After inflating them (they are surprisingly rigid), they usually Velcro in place, to prevent the awning from flexing.
27 Check the awning seal against the side of the caravan (especially in cooler/windier weather) and adjust as necessary.
28 Next, for aesthetic purposes – or added heat retention in colder weather – fit the awning’s draught skirt. This slips into a rail along the lower edge of the caravan side-wall and goes across or up and over the wheel arch, preventing draughts from blowing in under the caravan.
29 With some final adjustments of awning and carpet, you now have the perfect extension to your caravan living space.