Getaway: Scarborough Janette Sykes takes a short break in a traditional seaside resort that has something for all ages
Janette Sykes loves to be beside the seaside on the beautiful North Yorkshire coast, for a summer break to suit all ages
SCARBOROUGH BILLS ITSELF as Britain’s first resort, dating back to the 17th century, and there’s plenty of evidence to indicate that it’s still going strong.
Amusement arcades, ice cream parlours and fish and chip shops garland the top end of South Bay like a gaudy necklace, and if you visit in high season, South Sands will be packed with holidaymakers soaking up the sunshine and bathing in the sea.
Yet beneath the brash, rather extrovert exterior, there’s also plenty of scope to seek out some peace, quiet and culture, even in July and August – and that’s what makes it perfect for a multigenerational short break.
Generation game
It’s notoriously difficult to cater for the wide-ranging needs and expectations of children aged between four and 14 years, not to mention semi-retired and retired grandparents, plus a great-uncle and aunt.
Scarborough, with its abundance of family-friendly attractions and bustling entertainment, together with a sprinkling of unexpected, ‘secret’ discoveries, helped us strike the balance with ease.
Our base for the tour was The Camping and Caravanning Club’s Scarborough Site, at Burniston, off the main A165 to Whitby, conveniently located a short walk along the coastal Cleveland Way to North Bay.
We had a large party to accommodate – five stayed in a motorhome and five more in a well-equipped ready tent, while my husband and I camped in our two-berth touring caravan plus awning.
The ready tent, with its spacious living area and wooden terrace, proved the ideal meeting point for conferences over morning coffee, relaxing evening drinks and a very pleasant mid-holiday barbecue.
Off to the beach
On the first day, the grandparents and grandchildren headed for the beach, ice cream and fish and chips, while we decided to go into town for a leisurely walking tour of the quieter, lower end of South Bay.
Parking at Albion Road, we made our way along the coast via rows of genteel Victorian terraced houses and well-to-do detached homes – a world away from the noise and clamour further north.
We were curious to see the famous site where in 1993, the Holbeck Hall Hotel succumbed to a major landslip and slid unceremoniously into the North Sea. Little evidence now remains of the event, when one million tonnes of soil swept down into
the sea, carrying the four-star Holbeck Hall in its wake, apart from an interpretation panel outlining how the incident made international headlines at the time.
Fortunately, nobody was injured, although the dramatic collapse of the building was caught live on camera during a news report. Its untimely demise is thought to have been due to a combination of heavy rainfall, drainage problems, water pressure and geology. Nature is gradually reclaiming the area, although it’s a very slow process.
After admiring the sweeping views back across South Bay to Scarborough Castle and Castle Hill, we headed along the coast and paused for tea at the distinctive Clock Café, which opened just before the First World War. A local institution, its fascinating history is charted in The Clock Café Story, written to celebrate its centenary in 2013.
We rounded off a very relaxing day by sampling another Scarborough first – the historic Spa Cliff Lift. Built in 1875 and said to be the world’s oldest funicular cliff lift, this is a cheap and curiously elegant way to travel from the Spa Complex at the foot of the cliff to the Esplanade above, enjoying panoramic views of the bay below.
Next day, grandparents and grandchildren went their separate ways, some to Alpamare waterpark, with its slides, wave pool, splash and play area, spa and outdoor pools heated to 35°C, others to Brunswick Scarborough, home to more than 30 high street stores.
Walking the dog
We headed south to Scarborough’s quieter, yet no less appealing neighbour, Filey, with its stunning setting in the lee of Carr Naze and Filey Brigg. As dog-owners, we really appreciate both resorts’ pragmatic attitude to accommodating our four-legged friends. While central sections of their beaches are out of bounds from May to September, other areas remain accessible.
This meant we could park in the long-stay car park at West Avenue, near Filey Golf Club, then walk in the shade to the Royal
Parade and the beachside promenade, past the North Cliff Gardens and the Lifeboat Station at Coble Landing.
We then joined Filey Sands and headed towards the soaring cliffs of Carr Naze and the Brigg, where our pet could race around with other dogs and paddle in the sea, and we could watch families beachcombing and exploring the many rock pools.
Returning to the town centre, we climbed up Cargate Hill and relaxed for a while in the dog-friendly garden at Filey Bistro and Coffee Bar, which is open during the day and in the evenings. It’s a sheltered sun-trap where pets can snooze in the shade of the tables while owners bask in the sunshine, watching bees and butterflies browse among a riot of rainbow-coloured blooms. A lovely place to linger over lunch and a generous pot of tea (or something slightly stronger).
Later, we joined the grandparents and grandchildren for early evening drinks and a barbecue, swapping stories of the day’s exploits, discussing tomorrow’s adventures
‘We headed towards the soaring cliffs of Carr Naze and the Brigg, where our pet could race around with other dogs and paddle in the sea’
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and watching the sun go down from our vantage point looking across the campsite.
Top of everyone’s list were the famous dragon pedaloes at Peasholm Park and Glen, much loved by generations of east coast holidaymakers. In this North Bay oasis, you can play pitch and putt, take in an open-air concert or naval warfare display, or seek the peace of the tree trail and lily pond.
Dragon pedaloes seat three to five and are suitable for all ages, including children aged under five, but older sailors can also take to the water in rowing boats, Canadian-style canoes or the Swan Launch motorboat.
Castle and church
We walked at a leisurely pace from the site to the coast, turning onto the Cleveland Way past Scalby Ness and Mills and the Sea Life Centre, then across North Bay and skirting the historic castle, taking an hour or so to reach the town centre.
On the way, we took in Anne Brontë’s grave in St Mary’s Churchyard, high on a slope overlooking South Bay. Ill-starred Anne, author of Agnes Grey and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall, travelled to Scarborough in 1849, hoping sea air would temper her TB. Sadly, she died just three days after her arrival, at the age of 29. It’s a peaceful place in which to reflect on the literary sisters’ prodigious talents and tragically short lives.
Meandering through the Old Town, we descended to walk alongside the bustling Old Harbour and Outer Harbour, with its fleet of working boats and piles of lobster pots, past holidaymakers feasting on picnics and youngsters building sandcastles and enjoying traditional donkey rides.
Heading up Valley Road and turning left at Valley Bridge, we went in search of one of the town’s great treasures – the Church of St Martin-on-the-hill, a Pre-raphaelite masterpiece. Tucked away on Craven Street and boasting sublime stained glass windows and other exquisite features designed by William Morris, Ford Madox Brown, Edward Burne-jones and Dante Gabriel Rossetti, this beautiful building is internationally renowned, yet all too often overlooked.
Designed by architect George Frederick Bodley, the church is prized for its richly decorated pulpit, fabrics and wall paintings, and the memorial plaque for James Paul Moody, sixth officer of RMS Titanic, who drowned when the ship sank in 1912.
The church is open most days, but if you prefer a guided tour, they are available every Thursday morning from May to September.
Celebration dinner
All too soon it was time to head back to the site for a quick wash and brush-up, before celebrating our final evening with a meal at Gianni’s family-run Italian restaurant, and an equally satisfying evening of family entertainment at historic Scarborough Spa. Children and adults appreciated the mix of music, magic, comedy and dance – the perfect end to a very British seaside break.