Join Janette Sykes as she explores the spectacular cliffs and coves of Ireland’s gorgeous west coast
Janette Sykes explores the scenic beauty, history and heritage of southern Donegal and Sligo, on a pre-pandemic tour to the west of Ireland
‘Bundoran’s seaweed is a very precious commodity, prized by locals and visitors alike’
Until we actually reached Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, on its captivating west coast, neither my husband nor I had ever given much thought to the health benefits of seaweed. But arriving in Bundoran, southern Donegal, on the second leg of a summer caravanning holiday across the Irish Sea before the pandemic, it quickly became clear that this was a very precious commodity, highly prized by locals and visitors alike.
Harvested from the Atlantic Ocean, bladderwrack is the main ingredient in the relaxing bath, steam and shower treatment at Bundoran Seaweed Baths, overlooking its handsome beach and headland.
It’s said to relieve muscle pain, arthritis, fatigue, tension and stress, as well as soothing and smoothing tired and damaged skin. And when we discovered that its natural organic oils were also an antidote to ageing and cellulite, well, we were sold.
We booked a dual room for an hour’s treatment, first spending about 10 minutes in individual steam cabinets to open our pores, then taking the plunge into rather pleasingly old-fashioned seawater baths, which were brimming with the essential seaweed.
Perfect pick-me-up
Before immersing ourselves, we were advised to burst the plant’s capsules while soaking (as tension-busting as popping bubble wrap!) to release its non-sticky gel into the hot water to condition both skin and hair.
Our least favourite aspect of the treatment was the cold salt-water shower at the end, but a reviving cup of tea in reception, overlooking Bundoran’s promenade and the sea views beyond, more than compensated.
This proved to be the perfect pick-me-up during our stay at Lakeside Caravan & Camping Park at nearby Ballyshannon, nestling right on the shores of scenic Assaroe Lake.
Tourist brochures describe Bundoran as the Surf Capital of Ireland – part of an Atlantic Coast surfing trail with partners in the UK, France, Spain and Portugal. Miles of clean, uncrowded beach welcome surfers and watersports enthusiasts from beginners to experts, including the world’s best. It’s also an ideal location to enjoy other outdoor activities, such as kayaking, sailing, high ropes and climbing.
Riding on the beach
We like swimming, but we love horse riding even more, so decided to book a two-hour beach ride at Donegal Equestrian Centre, on the edge of the biscuit-coloured sands of Tullan Strand.
The centre is open all year round and has a good choice of ponies and horses to suit all sizes, ages and abilities; our mounts were a broken-coloured cob called Rayon and a grey mare called Smurf.
Both proved lively and surefooted, and our ride along the vast expanse of smooth beach and among the nearby dunes included several exhilarating gallops during one of the most pleasurable rides we’ve had.
Although it was the height of the holiday season in July, the strand was virtually empty, save for ourselves and a group of teenagers having a whale of a time learning the rudiments of surfing. We were also very impressed by the panoramic views – back to Bundoran and over to Ballyshannon, across to the mouth of the River Erne and Kildoney Point.
Bundoran has built its name as a traditional family resort, with attractions ranging from Waterworld, a huge indoor aqua adventure playground, to amusement arcades and bingo. Its pubs are famous for their live music, especially traditional, country and rock – and mainstream and indie music fans flock here for The
Sea Sessions Surf Music Festival each June.
Golfing and walking
For those who enjoy more leisurely pursuits, Bundoran Golf Club is an 18-hole championship course with a combination of parkland and pure links golf. Dating back to 1896, it’s one of the oldest courses in Ireland, and has a breathtaking clifftop location.
We spent a very pleasant morning following the Rougey Walk around the perimeter of the golf course and
Aughrus Point, as far as the poetically named Fairy
Bridges sea stacks and Wishing Chair rock formation.
People have been visiting the Fairy Bridges – said by locals to be the haunt of fairies – since the 1800s, and on a clear day you can see Mullaghmore, Sligo and over Donegal Bay to the magnificent Slieve League cliffs.
A distant glimpse was not enough for us to fully appreciate one of the highest and most dramatic cliff faces in Europe. We took the advice of our host at Lakeside and devoted a whole day to driving and walking to see what he described as a “truly hidden, and largely unknown gem”.
We had previously marvelled at the majesty of the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare and the Giant’s Causeway on the Antrim coast, and Slieve League certainly didn’t disappoint – twice the height of the Cliffs of Moher, the crags tower almost 2000ft above the ocean.
We made our way from Ballyshannon along the N15 to Viking-founded Donegal, with its restored 15th-century castle, then on to the picturesque N56 coast road on the north side of Donegal Bay, winding alongside the smaller inlets of Inver Bay,
Mac Swyne’s Bay and Fintragh Bay and then joining the R263 just north of Killybegs.
It was a gloriously sunny day, so we parked in the lower car park at Slieve League and opted to walk the mile or so (1.5km) along the coast to reach the main viewpoint. You need to be reasonably fit to do this, because the first part of the route soars very steeply uphill, although it soon levels off.
If mobility is a problem, you can drive to the main car park near the viewpoint, but do be aware that it soon gets full in high season.
If you prefer, you can take a boat ride around the foot of Slieve League when the waters are calm, from the tiny harbour of Teelin at the mouth of the River Glen. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, you can park at Teelin and walk westwards to the highest point of Slieve League – although only very experienced hikers should tackle the treacherous ledges of One Man’s Pass to get an even closer look at the cliff’s dizzying descent to the ocean. The path continues to Malin Beg, 10 miles (16km) west.
We decided to plump for the middle ground, and the short walk was well worth the effort – as we turned each corner, the views just got better.
The best panorama of all was at Bunglass Point and Amharc Mor (which means ‘the good view’ – something of an understatement!). Slieve League stretched before us, like an elegant arm curving out into the Atlantic.
Ice cream and a view
Some say the best time to visit is at sunset, when the rock faces are streaked with ever-changing shades of red, amber and ochre, but it also looked pretty special on a warm summer afternoon.
The perfect accompaniment was some homemade ice cream, a refreshing cup of tea, a broad smile and friendly service from the local ice cream van.
‘Our ride along the vast expanse of smooth beach and among the nearby dunes included exhilarating gallops’
Ballyshannon, a short stroll from our campsite, was also worth a walking tour. Stylish Georgian homes line hilly, bustling streets rising up from the banks of the River Erne and there is a good choice of shops.
We made a beeline for O’reilly’s Fish Centre, Castle Street, a fourth-generation family-run fishmongers, to buy fresh fillets for an evening barbecue.
Georgian mansion
On our final day before departing to visit Connemara, we were lured by the Georgian charms of magnificent Lissadell House, near Carney, in the lee of the Dartry Mountains in Sligo.
Our initial interest was roused when we learned that the poet WB Yeats was a regular visitor, but during our tour with a very knowledgeable guide, the story of the family who lived here proved even more intriguing.
The imposing Greek Revival mansion was built in the 1830s by the Anglo-irish Gore-booth family and is still privately owned. Unlike many of the gentry, they were well liked by the local community, because during the Great Famine of the 1840s, Sir Robert Gore-booth mortgaged his house to help feed his employees.
Our visit coincided with the 90th anniversary of the death of his grand-daughter, Constance, an active campaigner for Irish Home Rule who played a leading role in the 1916 Easter Rising in Dublin.
She married Count Casimir Dunin-markievicz in 1893, but when her husband moved to Ukraine in 1914, Constance remained in Ireland to work for social and political reform, opening a soup kitchen and providing peat for Dublin’s poor to heat their homes.
Politics and poetry
Both Constance and her sister Eva were tireless campaigners for women’s rights. Constance became the first female member of the Dáil (Assembly of Ireland) and its first female minister, while Eva was a suffragist and published poet who dedicated her life to campaigning for better conditions for working women and women’s suffrage. Both lived long enough to be among the Irish women (aged over 21) who finally won the right to vote in 1922.
The house, gardens and woodland are well worth exploring, and there are pleasant walks along the beach and seashore, with panoramic views across Sligo Bay when the skies are clear.
After our house tour and a gentle stroll, we treated ourselves to a delicious afternoon tea of sandwiches and home-baked pastries in the spacious, welcoming Lissadell Tea Rooms – perfect end to a fascinating day.