BORDER HOPPING in Wales

Straddling the border between England and Wales, the Wye Valley offers charming small towns and jaw-dropping scenery, says Andria Massey

It was that time of year again, when we’d normally be thinking about our next tour. But, of course, most of 2020 had been anything but normal, so we kept looking out with frustration at our immobile caravan sitting on the drive, going precisely nowhere.

Living in Wales, we were restricted more stringently than those in England, with a five-mile travel limit imposed for months. But eventually, we were released, as the travel limit was lifted and campsites were opened – albeit without facilities.

In the van we are self-sufficient, so this wasn’t a problem. We booked a site near Chepstow, loaded up and away we went.

Off the beaten track

Once we had set up on site, we decided to visit nearby Monmouth. This was an easy trip on main roads, with plenty of parking in this charming historical town.

We wandered up the high street, where shops were limiting numbers of customers entering their premises because of social distancing. The only difficulty we had was that coffee shops only served take-aways, unless you were prepared to sit outside (that day, in the rain). Fortunately, as the morning went on, the rain subsided and we did sit outside, without our drinks and lunch being watered down!

Magnificent Monmouth

Situated where the River Monnow meets the River Wye, Monmouth is in the lower reaches of the beautiful Wye Valley, which has been a very popular tourist centre since 1780. It is perhaps best known for its iconic 13th-century gatehouse, Monnow Bridge, and the imposing Norman castle. This is an easy town to walk around, with lots to see.

One of Monmouth’s many attractions is Great Castle House, built on part of the original castle. This impressive town house was completed in 1673 for Henry Somerset, third Marquess of Worcester, and is one of 24 sites on the Monmouth Heritage Trail.

It later became an Assize Court, until the court moved to the new Shire Hall in 1725; it has also been the headquarters of the Royal Monmouthshire Royal Engineers since the mid-19th century, and houses the Regimental Museum.

With a long and distinguished service history, the Royal Monmouthshire Royal Engineers is the most senior reserve regiment in the British Army.

Warmer weather

Towards the end of our Monmouth stroll, the weather improved, so we headed back, stopping off for afternoon tea at the Old Station Tintern café, before wandering around the spectacular ruins of Tintern Abbey – now a national icon, and founded originally in 1131 by Walter de Clare.

The first abbey for the Cistercian monks was built of timber, but in 1269, work began on the architectural masterpiece it later became. The west front, with its complex window, and the massive arches of the nave, still dominate the skyline.

Situated close to Tintern village, on the Welsh bank of the River Wye – which forms the border with Gloucestershire – the abbey has a turbulent history. Following Henry VIII’S 1536 dissolution of the monasteries, it slowly fell into ruin.

Sadly, pandemic regulations meant the abbey wasn’t open when we were there, but we do plan to return for a proper visit soon.

The next day, we decided to explore the Wye Valley, stopping off first at St Briavels, in Gloucestershire, so we could photograph the imposing moated Norman castle.

This impressive building was originally constructed between 1075 and 1129, as an administrative centre for the Forest of Dean. The castle, which has Grade I listing, now houses a Youth Hostel.

‘The weather improved, so we headed back, stopping off for tea at the Old Station Tintern café, before wandering around the Abbey’