ADJUSTMENT AND PREPARATION

Overhaul hinges 1

Before final profiling can take place, you’ll need to make sure the infrastructure is in good order. All welding and major repairs should now be finished. Make sure all panel hinges are in good condition or you won’t be able to get the panel gaps consistent.

Bonnet and bootlid 4

Bonnets and bootlids are sharp and pointy. Take time to ensure they fit properly on their hinges, they don’t foul the bodywork and their latches are correctly adjusted. Mark the positions of the hinges so you know where they go back on after painting.

Check panel gaps 2

Adjust panel mounts and shim or reposition hinges and striker plates to get the panel gaps as uniform as possible. Start by getting the least easy to adjust datums lined up – such as this door swage line – then see what needs to be tweaked elsewhere.

Test-fit furniture 5

Test-fit everything that attaches to the body. You don’t want to discover that it doesn’t sit correctly after it’s painted. This lamp housing had a sheared mounting stud. Its repair would’ve ruined the paint if it’d been carried out after spraying.

Rectify wide gaps 3

You may need to get physical with panels. Use a length of timber to lever panels into position. Cut back and weld the door lip if a gap is too narrow. Slit it open and add a bead of weld – or weld on a length of rod – if it’s too wide. Don’t use filler here.

Apertures 6

Don’t skip over the door, boot and bonnet apertures – or any other crevices that will be visible. Rectify damage, apply filler and spend time perfecting the profiles and surfaces. This attention to detail will massively enhance the final result.