Spot the grot

…where the Smart’s not so smart

It’s an impressive structure – watch the online video of a Smart being slammed into a concrete block at 70mph (tinyurl.com/kh582c6). Mercedes did a good job of protecting this cell; apart from some minor corrosion by the doors where the seatbelts bash into it, and in front of the rear wheelarch liner, there’s unlikely to be any rust.

However, the seals for the small plastic rear side windows do fail. They can be removed easily though, to replace the seal.

In period you could reclothe your car by fitting fresh coloured plastic outer panels. You can still buy genuine panels, but they come in bare plastic now, so you have to paint them to suit. In summer these panels shrug off knocks but in winter they can shatter if bashed. Entry-level Smarts came with a polycarbonate roof that gives no problems structurally, although paint adhesion can be an issue. The Pulse and Passion models got a glass roof that could shatter if hit by flying stones, so a self-adhesive strip was fitted just above the windscreen early on in a bid to absorb the energy. Cabriolets can be hassle, as the Webasto-developed cloth roof is opened and closed by a pair of electric motors that actuate a cable on either side of the car. These cables develop flat spots which puts everything out of kilter. It’s possible to fix, but it’s not a cheap job – budget up to £650.

Oily bits

The three-cylinder engines have to work hard so it’s essential to change the oil regularly. Although fully

synthetic (0/40) oil is recommended, to stop the piston rings degrading, this can cause bore glazing leading to burnt-out the exhaust valves.

A properly maintained Smart engine can notch up 100,000 miles, but if used only for short urban trips this can be cut by two-thirds. Frequent oil changes are key. Incidentally, the 600 doesn’t have a service indicator but the 700 does. What you mustn’t do is fit a cheap rebuilt engine; anything less than £1500 will be a false economy; add £800 if the clutch and turbo also need replacing. Diesel engines are tough and will rack up high mileages. The biggest issue generally is misfuelling, although this can be sorted out by someone who knows what they’re doing. Genuine exhausts tend to last well but many aftermarket ones don’t; the latter can also make the cabin noisy. The exhaust manifold tends to crack, so listen for blowing when cold. Don’t expect much change from £1000 if the exhaust and manifold need replacing. The automated manual gearbox is very reliable – it’s the bits that make it work (or should do) that can be a problem. Ensuring the clutch is correctly adjusted can transform the driving experience; an actuator does the job of your left foot. If things are horribly juddery it’s probably because the rear crank seal is leaking; budget £250 to fix it. The earliest cars got wishbones and leaf springs but this was soon switched to Macpherson struts; all officially imported cars have the latter. Earlier cars handle better but the ride is harder.

Spongy brakes are par for the course. If the

steering is stiff it’s probably because one of the knuckle joints in the column has seized; a new column is the only long-term solution – budget £300. Tyres are odd sizes: 135/70 15 at the front and 175/55 15 at the rear. By swapping to the more common 145/65 15 and 195/50 15 sizes you’ll have more choice and cut your costs.

Trim and electrics

The interior trim is very durable. Easily-replaced blocks on the bottom of each side window which act as stops can come adrift, leading to the windows hitting the tridion cell. Also, plastic bushes that hold the wiper mechanism together wear out. Fixing it means removing the front panels.

Various electrical issues can strike. Contacts in the lighting stalks can fail so the rear and dash lights don’t work but the headlights do. A new £60 stalk fixes things. The transmission loom that goes over the intercooler can chafe and short out. New looms aren’t available so repairs have to be made. The symptom is an inoperative transmission. Another common fault is a failed brake light switch. Replacements are available but if this switch isn’t working you won’t be able to get reverse. More of an issue is a failed module at the heart of the electrical system. While 600s have a CEM (Central Electrics Module), the 700 got a SAM (Signal Acquisition and actuation Module). Both can fail leading to erratic electrics. Replacements are available (£312 for a CEM, £495 for a SAM), but fitting is not a DIY job.

‘When buying, your focus should be on condition rather than spec’

Rear screen Hidden plugs Rust trap Horizontal heating elements shattered the rear screen of early Smarts, so U-shaped elements were adopted. The engine is a twinspark unit with six spark plugs, but three are often overlooked as they’re hidden. Remove...

Water gets into the brake fluid reservoir, so change the fluid annually – every two years is the official schedule. The suspension’s coil springs can break; it’s most likely to occur up front but it can happen at the back, too. When the doors are...

Interiors survive well, but replacement parts are rare.