Spot the grot
… roving around problem areas
Mike Cordon runs Mike Cordon Cars in Derby. He says: ‘I’ve flirted with Rolls-royce and Bentley but the P5 has just as much presence, doesn’t antagonise people as much, plus they’re easier to work on. The P5 is utterly usable, too; you can still use one every day as it will more than keep up with modern traffic.’ be noisy. But repairs are cheap and straightforward, as they are for the engine as a whole. A decent used unit can also be sourced for £500 or so from a specialist such as David Green.
The V8 is even more durable, but neglect leads to worn camshafts and rocker shafts, plus sticking hydraulic tappets betrayed by a chattering top end. Engine oil leaking from the bell housing indicates the rope seal needs replacing – a major job. Parts to rebuild the V8 are cheap and plentiful, with many specialists able to revive even the most tired unit – a complete overhaul will cost upwards of £2000. Later V8s are a popular replacement; the blocks are similar and the SD1 unit has neoprene oil seals, bigger valves and an uprated oil pump, plus it’s an easy DIY rebuild proposition.
Distributors wear within 30k miles due to lack of lubrication. Are built dizzy from distributor doctor. com will transform the running for around £200; electronic ignition for £100 will help too. If the engine overheats when left idling, the radiator is probably partially blocked by debris. Overheating and fuel vapour locks are common, particularly on the V8, but can be cured by fitting a three-core radiator and an electric fuel pump.
The 3.0-litre’s manual gearbox was carried over from the P4, and aside from worn synchromesh or bearings there’s little to worry about. Apart from a
few early cars, manual P5s have overdrive – make sure it cuts in smoothly as soon as it’s engaged.
All 3.5-litre cars have an automatic gearbox, but many 3.0-litres came with a manual. Self-shifters featured a Borg Warner Type DG until 1965; later cars had a Type 35 unit. If the transmission fluid has been changed periodically, all will be fine. Jerky changes can indicate that the gearbox’s internal filter is clogged up; cleaning it means dropping the sump. Pull out the dipstick at the offside rear of the engine to check the smell and colour of the fluid; if the fluid is dark and smells of rotten eggs it’s overheated and an exchange ’box will be needed, at up to £1200.
Clutches and driveshafts are strong, but differentials leak and can run low on oil if left unchecked, but are unlikely to require a rebuild. More likely is wear of the propshaft’s centre bearing (£20) or bushes (£26 per set), leading to vibration. All coupés have power steering, which on the P5B is over-light and tends to leak; the seals can weep and some castings are porous. The steering shouldn’t be left on full lock for more than 30 seconds at a time, to keep internal pressures down and save the seals; reconditioned steering boxes are readily available.
Any P5 with a droopy rear needs fresh leaf springs – they can be reconditioned from £100 each. Bushes for the rear spring mountings are V-shaped and prone
‘Parts to rebuild the V8 are cheap and plentiful, with many specialists’
to disintegration. The shock absorbers have to work hard and cost £60-70 apiece. Front suspension bushes also wear; new ones are fairly easy to fit and cost £67 a set. Anti-roll bar bushes wear but are easy to replace and readily available.
For the first year of production there were drum brakes all round, but this was switched to discs up front to provide extra stopping power. As long as the disc/drum set-up is installed, the brakes should be perfectly up to the job, even if the engine has been tweaked for a bit of extra power.
Finish by checking the exhaust; stainless pipes are a bonus as a top-quality full system including down pipes can run to over £1000 fitted on a P5B.
Trim and electrics
That interior is fabulous when pristine, but can be costly to revive if tatty. All the Wilton, wood and leather can cost £5k-plus to revive professionally. Seats that are losing their shape will require the chip foam replacing. Although the wood cappings are solid, the dash is veneered and the corners can delaminate because of water leaks.
If there’s evidence that either of the windscreen seals need replacing, tread extremely carefully, as this is one of the most difficult things to remedy on a P5. Although new seals are readily available, they are incredibly time consuming to fit, even for someone who knows what they’re doing. The seal should be smooth and tight to the glass, without visible lumps where the clips underneath are showing through. Also look for general signs of water ingress into the cabin, such as rotten carpeting or discoloured wood trim.
Much of the P5’s brightwork is stainless steel and can be polished, but bumpers and overriders can rot and are not cheap (over £800 for a new, original spec rear bumper, stainless steel repros are cheaper). The V8 has stainless steel sill trims that can need replacement at £150.