Practical Classics (UK)

How to make your battery last longer

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QI’ve just replaced a battery that died after a relatively short period of service. Do you have any advice on using a ‘smart charger’ and generally getting the most life out of a battery? Simon Needham, Barkestone

AWe’ll start with ‘smart chargers’. These devices can charge a battery, then top it up indefinite­ly with a trickle charge. They do this by continuall­y measuring the voltage at the battery terminals and administer­ing the required current accordingl­y.

Cheap models tend to have a low maximum charging current, but this is not detrimenta­l unless a rapid charge is required. Anything between four and ten amps will be adequate for most classic cars. It’s only a maximum, anyway – they’ll all drop to a few amps after an hour-or-two.

Better models also have a ‘desulphati­on’ function, which claims to reverse some of the natural symptoms of battery ageing by attempting to shock hard deposits off the battery’s plates with high-frequency pulses. This is not a panacea by any means – crusty plates is just one of several debilitati­ng battery illnesses.

The biggest advantage of a smart charger is that it can be connected and safely forgotten about. It’ll adjust its own charging rate and switch itself off if the battery malfunctio­ns.

However, these devices aren’t perfect. As a battery ages, it performs differentl­y and the voltage at the terminals will start to differ from what the charger expects. The charger tries to respond to what a perfect battery would do – but it’s not dealing with a perfect battery. Thus, batteries are often declared fully charged and put into trickle-charge mode long before full charge is actually achieved. This is useless when you come to use it, and it’ll also shorten the battery’s life.

A good way to kill a battery prematurel­y is to keep it fullycharg­ed and not use it. This is why stored cars with trickle-charged batteries can still fail to start on demand. It’s also worth noting that a smart charger will sometimes refuse to charge a completely flat battery.

In addition to a smart charger, therefore, you should kit yourself out with a simple oldfashion­ed charger. An unspectacu­lar model will be perfectly adequate. It’ll cope with completely flat batteries with ease. Also, its broad-brush approach to charging – it outputs an unregulate­d 15 to 16V – is perfect for giving older batteries a slight overcharge to bring them back up to speed. It’s usually sufficient to charge a battery overnight, though one that’s totally flat may take up to three days.

Extended charging periods call for very careful monitoring. It’s a good idea to let it rest periodical­ly. The battery’s fully charged when the specific gravity of the acid in the cells doesn’t rise any further over a period of three hours (use a hydrometer). At this point, it should be gassing enthusiast­ically (but

not violently) and it should be no more than comfortabl­y warm.

The best conditioni­ng you can give a stored battery is to leave the car’s headlamps on to discharge it, then charge it fully with an old-style charger. Do this every three months regardless of whether it’s left on a trickle charge.

If the battery has removable cell caps, check the acid level from time-to-time. There’s usually a dipper or a ledge moulded into the battery casing below the cap. It should be filled to this point. Top up with distilled water and give it a brief charge or a bit of use to mix the liquids. Never top up a totally flat battery before charging it: the acid level rises considerab­ly and it’ll overflow.

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