How to bag the very best Z that money can buy

With the exception of the ZT 260 – which is already in a situation where demand exceeds supply and five-figure prices are the norm for the best examples – the rest of the Z-cars are still in bargain territory.

You can get a halfdecent ZR or ZS for less than a grand, but that situation won’t last forever, and both of them like to rot. The ZR is the worst, as corrosion in the rear quarters and sill trailing edges can be a killer. The ZS’S favourite grot spot, meanwhile, is where the front floorpans meet the bulkhead, which can be far worse than it seems on an otherwise immaculate-looking car, as the top half holds up surprisingly well.

ZT’S are a bit more specialist, with the V6 models in particular commanding £20004000 in good nick, though it’s essential that you ensure all three timing belts have been done. It’s a £600 job otherwise. Check the back of the sills and the rear suspension arms too, and be wary of clonking from the front suspension ball joints.

On four-cylinder petrol cars, the Rover K-series head gasket issue needs no introduction. This affects all Z models from 1.4 to 1.8 at some stage, but if you don’t cook the engine it’s not a massive job to fit an upgraded multi-layer shim gasket. Most specialists will charge about £400 for the privilege, although it’s a job that’s Diy-able if you’re a competent mechanic. On 1.8 turbo cars, new turbos cost around £300 or you can have a go at rebuilding your own with a £100 kit.

There are plenty of cars being broken at the moment so trim is available, and electrical gremlins can be remedied in a similar fashion, by buying used items, or new from the small army of specialists. Expertise is available from online forums or clubs, the support network is very good all round.