Buying a Capri
How to go about bagging a good one
There are many Ford clubs out there, so the first step in buying a Capri – whichever generation you hanker after – is to join one or more of them and get to know your fellow enthusiasts. This will be particularly relevant if you’re after a Capri MKI, as there aren’t many out there. Sourcing an example that hasn’t been extensively restored will be harder still so check the quality of the restoration and find out who was responsible for it. Panel availability isn’t great so although the shell is a simple affair with repair work straightforward compared to many classics, try to find a car with the best possible panels and exterior trim you can.
The 1974 Capri II might have been a little plainer in the looks department (despite the addition of a useful tailgate) but it’s marginally better designed and built than its predecessor, while being much more affordable today. It only lasted three years before the MKIII arrived in ’78 and so much like the first- generation car, mechanical bits are much easier to find than the bodywork and trim.
Rust and accident damage are common enemies of the tail-happy Capri MKIII, which to some is the ultimate enthusiast’s choice among all the models. That desirability pushes prices up and in turn increases the chances of a buyer being diddled, so it’s vital to study the paperwork hard and make sure that you’re buying exactly what you are paying for. The 1.3-litre Kent-powered examples are virtually extinct, the Pinto 1.6 and 2-litre versions are easy to live with and although gruff, the Essex V6 models are prized. But if it is a 2.8-litre fuel-injected Cologne-powered car you’re after, expect to pay big bucks nowadays. Just check inner wings for rot and make sure that the differential isn’t toast, before you do.
‘Rust and crash damage are the enemy of all Capri models’