Buyers’ Brief: VW Beetle

How to buy the very best ‘People’s Car’ you can…

All you need to know before you buy this ultimate people’s car.

Why you want one

Few cars are as easy to maintain or upgrade as the Beetle, with a ready parts supply and plenty of specialists. Running costs are low and performance isn’t bad; this is no road burner, but ample low-down torque means the Beetle is easy to drive. Suitable as a year-round classic, for winter driving original heat exchangers makes all the difference; repro items provide poor cabin heating.

What are the Achilles’ Heels?

Many Beetles look good but are actually rotten; others have been badly restored. Most Beetles have also been modified in some way, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing as it often makes them more usable. What matters is what’s been done and to what standard; ascertaining this is key.

The jacking points, wheelarches and floorpans dissolve; so can the spare wheel well and bumper mountings. On cars with Macpherson struts (from 1970), you need to check the metal around the top mountings, along with the running boards – mainly where they are mounted to the bodyshell.

The sills also rot, and as they incorporate the heater ducts from the engine bay, this complicates repairs. Don’t under-estimate the effort required to fix rotten sills; wholesale repairs are needed rather than patching, and it’s an involved job. Things can be made even worse by the bodyshell being welded to the chassis; getting a specialist to put this right can cost £4000.

The Beetle’s ubiquity, affordability and cult status mean it’s always popular with young drivers, plenty of whom have learned or practised their restoration skills on a Bug. As a result amateur rebuilds abound, so check for uneven panel gaps, wonky welding and distorted panels. All Beetles feature an air-cooled flat-four engine. Notoriously noisy when cold, these

engines are tough and cheap as well as easy to rebuild. Some minor weeping of oil is normal, but anything more will probably mean a full rebuild is due; expect to pay £1500 exchange for a full powerplant overhaul, or £500 for the parts to DIY.

Which one is best for you

Although the Beetle didn’t seem to evolve much during its lengthy production run, nothing is interchangeable between the first and last cars. Indeed, there were changes of some sort just about every year. We’ve focused here on Beetles from 1967 as they’re more usable, more readily available and also more affordable. You can expect to buy a Beetle with an 1192cc or 1285cc engine, although in 1967 a 1493cc unit was introduced. Even the biggest standard Beetle engine displaced just 1584cc, so running costs are brilliantly low.

The 1200 model was always aimed at those on a budget; this was the model that was last to get brake, suspension and electrical upgrades, so you’re better off aiming for a Beetle with a bigger