Peerless GT
Indicators and horns working in time for steering box
Isigned off last month having fitted the steering column control head, only to discover it was missing a special clamping olive at the steering box end that prevents it turning with the steering wheel. I had also ordered the same for my customer’s Peerless, as it too was missing, and only came to light when I stripped his steering box for a refurbishment. The timing was perfect as it provided me with unparalleled access to the internal workings. This was to prove useful in setting mine up correctly without removing it from the vehicle. I knew mine had almost no lubricating oil but couldn’t remember why. I was to find out soon.
Boxing clever
The steering box is a worm and peg set-up. I’ve yet to drive a Peerless/warwick with steering that’s either felt sloppy or too tight. At speed, it comes into its own with plenty of feedback and no vagueness. The box is similar in most respects to the TR2/3 versions, with a differing length tube casing and rigid internal column. Steering wheel adjustment is made via a large Bakelite nut behind the boss, marked Bluemels. Any play at the steering box rocker shaft is adjusted out via a slotted screw adjuster and lock nut. I was aware of some stiffness at low speed; wider, modern tyres wouldn’t be helping but I reckoned it wasn’t solely their fault.
Having removed the air filter box for full access to the box, I was able to grab the steering cross link arm and detect movements at the steering box. By carefully altering the tension of the adjuster screw, the movement disappeared. I could now top up the oil. There are two filling points, one on the steering box cover and another on the outer column tube, some six inches away and higher up. Using a small funnel, I drizzled in enough oil until it was full and then waited. There is a main seal at the bottom of the box where the vertical rocker shaft passes through to connect with the lower drop arm.
If that was shot, I had an involved repair on my hands. It didn’t leak there, but did where the new olive was fitted but not tightened fully. I quickly did so and the small dribble subsided. That was easy. I finished off by topping up the box fully using the higher filling point on the column.
Feed me power
Now I could focus on wiring in the horn and indicator feeds, which use Lucas bullet-type
‘Both lamp units had green/white feed wires’
connectors, two of which had been removed to help feed the wiring down through the steering column inner shaft. I fitted new connectors and made all the corresponding connections. I then connected the three wires near the bulkhead I thought were for the flasher unit and switched on the ignition. You guessed it, nothing. My voltmeter told me there was no power feed to the flasher unit, so I checked the fuses and found one 15amp had blown. I disconnected the three wires, changed the fuse and checked for power again. This time the 12v feed was working so why the blow? I connected the feed wire and other light green wire and this time the indicators worked, diagonally between front and rear. I didn’t reconnect the black wire presuming it was an earth, hence the blow, although I’m puzzled as to why it’s an earth. A chat with Autosparks will clarify I’m sure. My thinking is I’m supposed to use a different flasher unit.
Still, I was delighted nonetheless because for the first time I had indicators controlled at the steering wheel, and the horns put out a good blast too. I did notice the indicator tell-tale lamps on the dash didn’t illuminate, even with the hazard lights on. They used to, so it’s likely a common earth connection in the dash.
Back in the boot, my spaghetti wiring due the cable tidies coming unstuck was double checked to see how I’d created diagonal indicators. That was easy, too, as I had connected the wires incorrectly due to both lamp units having green/ white feed wires. Once the tell-tale bulbs are flashing again I think my MOT man might take me seriously next time I say the big day is imminent.
Hot and cold to trot
Away from electrics, and a couple of weeks prior, I had also solved another annoying Peerless foible. The original heater valve is the manual type, so you have to pull over, flip the bonnet and turn the valve by hand where it sits atop the cylinder head, thereby controlling hot and cold. Closing the valve means coolant flow from the back of the cylinder head is also stopped, creating a known hotspot at the back of the head and you really don’t need heat inside a Peerless most days. The answer was a heater bypass valve. I found a metal version I was sure I could adapt to suit. It’s early days but it’s doing the job, so now I have full coolant flow from the back of the head regardless of the heater valve being on or off. How civilised.
strettonclassics@gmail.com