Peerless GT
Gary gets to grip with a few rotating issues on Peerless
Fresh from my success with sourcing and adapting the inline heater blower, the final steps were tackled to have it fully functional from the dashboard. I wasn’t keen on fitting a two- or three-speed fan switch and a variable speed type was my preferred option. Modern types I’ve looked at have been invariably too large or unable to accept a period correct or original type knob. The only solution was a rheostat switch, as fitted to some TRS, Jaguars, Healeys and so on.
I’d already got my fingers metaphorically burned buying secondhand versions of these at autojumbles due to broken resistor coils meaning they don’t work or burst into flames. There are two Lucas types currently on sale but be careful if you follow in my footsteps because one version (£40ish) is only suitable for dimming the panel lights. The correct heater motor variant is typically £75, but it can cope with the 6amp motor I’m using. The switch uses modern materials and the blue body material replaces the old cream ceramic.
Other than that, it looks identical. Three vent slots allow the switch to dissipate heat, but the two adjacent slots must be fitted upwards for maximum heat loss. My first snag was the small hole diameter in the dash binnacle for the original switch. This was enlarged with a stepped drill bit. With the switch fitted, I did a dry run without wires to ensure it wasn’t snagging anywhere. Happy it wasn’t, the two feed wires were connected and I turned my attention to the engine bay wiring. Being inline, the blower is readily removed for access as necessary. Its wiring needs to be equally Diy-friendly, so a two-wire waterproof connector was the best choice for painless removal and refitting. These are readily available and simple to fit if you follow the correct assembly sequence. This is typically seals first, then the male and female connectors are crimped onto the wiring, followed by their respective connector bodies. Lastly, the stabiliser guide pieces and main seal are added and that’s it. Fit an inline fuse if a feed from the fusebox
isn’t available and away you go. The rheostat switch operates on an OFF/FULL/SLOWER basis and at low speed the blower is almost inaudible, even with the engine off. It wasn’t cheap, but it was the best solution. It also looks completely standard.
Demisting vents
Now I had full airflow into the cabin I had to tackle the other related job I’d been putting off – the screen demister vent trims. When built new, Peerless fitted the dash as a trimmed subassembly for reasons I came to appreciate the day the windscreen was fitted some years back ahead of schedule because the professionals who made it, fitted it for their own peace of mind.
The almost vertical screen makes fitting the vent screws very tricky. Plus, I had yet to cut the material exposing the slots in the dash top.
Using a craft knife with a new blade, I tentatively cut slits by feeling the slots beneath the material. A quick measure of the vent trims gave me the maximum trim slot and trim lengths. I transferred this data to the dash top before cutting out more material for uninterrupted airflow. Next, I changed tack and stripped the vent trims of their old paint and prepped them for new wrinkle finish paint. Once applied, it’s best left for 48 hours, hence my decision. Two days later the trims were ready, but I was unable to source suitably small countersunk screws locally. There is hardly room for a small screwdriver bit to access the screws, but they should be fitted for the next issue.
Viva la revolutions
Lastly, my rev counter nemesis finally met its match, as I bit the bullet in one last ditch attempt to avoid spending £120 or so on refurbishment. My investigations had led me to the possibility of the inner cable effectively being clamped between the distributor drive and the rev counter input. The cure for this is a simple washer at the dizzy end to create a degree of endfloat.
Having sourced a washer and fitted the new inner cable to the already routed outer casing I realised the rev counter had jammed tight. I wouldn’t be needing the washer after all. With the rev counter on the bench, I stripped it down to component form. Sure enough, the magnet shaft had seized in the casing slot. I couldn’t force it back or forth, so upwards was the only way. It relented after much prising to reveal… not a lot. Carb cleaner was then used to remove the grease and dirt.
The magnet was refitted and spun freely. Reassembly was easy enough and the whole job from dash back to dash took less than an hour. Hopefully, the revolutions have truly begun.
‘The new rheostat switch wasn’t cheap, but it was the best solution’