Practical Classics (UK)

E-TYPE BUYING GUIDE

How to make your six-cylinder dream into reality. All you need to know

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WHAT TO PAY PROJECT

£25,000-£40,000

RUNNER

£60,000-£80,000

GOOD

£80,000-£150,000

TECH SPEC E-type S2 4.2

Engine 4235cc/6-cyl/dohc

Power 265bhp@5400rpm

Torque 283lb ft@4000rpm Gearbox 4-speed manual 0-60mph 7.2sec

Top speed 150mph Fuel economy 18mpg Length 4.45m

Width 1.68m

Why you want one

When the Jaguar E-type arrived in 1961 it rewrote the rule book. It was more aerodynami­c, more beautiful and faster than any mainstream production sports car had ever been, yet it was still relatively affordable. Of course things have moved on massively since the early Sixties, but this is a car that’s still achingly desirable, relatively usable and will always be in demand.

What are the Achilles’ Heels?

As usual, it’s bodywork problems that will soak up your cash; some mechanical issues can be costly to put right, but they’re usually a known quantity at the outset. The bodywork sometimes isn’t like that because invariably the more you delve the more you find. Focus on the front bulkhead, which rots from the inside out; effective repairs are very involved and costly as the structure is complicate­d.

The various seams around the car can harbour rust and so can the battery tray as well as the door bottoms. In the case of the latter it’s usually because the polythene sheet inside the door casing is missing so the door fills up with water if the drain holes are blocked.

An XK straight-six engine is fitted to all Series 1 and Series 2 E-types. As long as it’s not neglected, this legendary powerplant will notch up 150,000 miles, but insufficie­nt antifreeze will lead to internal corrosion and then overheatin­g – which can also be caused by an electric fan not being fitted. The factory-fit radiator cooling fan is woefully underspeci­fied, which is why most E-types have now been uprated – but check for signs of a blown head gasket anyway.

A high-mileage engine may be worn out, so look for signs of blue smoke as the engine is started and

then accelerate­d through the gears. Once the engine is warm there should be at least 40psi at 3000rpm on the oil pressure gauge.

Gearboxes are strong, but they wear out eventually; budget £1500 for a rebuild. Differenti­als wear more readily and these are £1800 to overhaul. Clutches aren’t costly or weak, but replacemen­t is time-consuming, so the bill can be high if you don’t do the work yourself.

Which one is best for you

The E-type debuted in 1961 with a 3.8-litre engine and triple SU carburetto­rs. There were coupé or roadster variants with a four-speed Moss manual gearbox with no synchro on first gear; there was no overdrive or auto option. In late 1964 the engine’s displaceme­nt was increased to 4.2 litres and an allsynchro fourspeed gearbox became standard, then in 1966 came the 2+2, with a nine-inch increase in wheelbase, the roof was raised by just over two inches and a three-speed Borg Warner automatic gearbox was optional. Changes in 1967 led to the Series 1 ½ (an unofficial tag), the main feature being the headlamp fairings getting ditched; this car

would go into production in mid-1968 as the Series 2, with wrap-around bumpers, bigger indicators, sidelights under the bumpers, bigger brake calipers and a bigger grille for better air flow into an improved radiator with twin electric cooling fans.

Can you make it better

Many buyers want big improvemen­ts such as power steering and a five-speed gearbox, but there’s a raft of smaller upgrades that are worth investigat­ing too, such as a high-torque starter motor, high-flow water pump or more efficient radiator. Electronic ignition is also worthwhile and so is a thermostat­ic electric cooling fan.

Specialist advice

Martin Lane set up Carmarthen­shire-based Lane’s Cars in 1993. He told us: ‘As with so many classics, the most expensive E-type is the one that you buy very cheaply. These cars are 50-60 years old, so corrosion can strike anywhere in the bodyshell and the frame that supports the engine, steering and suspension. This frame can crack as well as corrode, and because access is poor, removing everything is essential to fix things properly.

‘Values at the top end have come down by as much as 20 per cent, but the drop is less significan­t at the bottom end of the market. Regardless of an E-type’s value, the cost of reviving a project can still be £40,000 to £50,000 just for all of the parts required, on top of which you then have to add the cost of a specialist’s labour for the 2000 to 3000 hours required for a decent rebuild. Also, around 85 per cent of E-types were exported, so many right-hand drive E-types were originally left-hand drive – check anything you buy is what it claims to be. Ensure the correct powerplant is fitted, that it’s a genuine right-hand drive car and that it’s not a roadster that left the factory as a coupé. JDHT can provide details of the car’s original specificat­ion.’

 ??  ?? Wire wheels Engine Check the spokes for tightness once a year – simply run a spanner across the spokes and listen for any change in tone. The XK engine is tough, but once worn it’s costly to rebuild. A DIY rebuild costs £2000+ without any machining, while a profession­al rebuild is more like £5000-£6000.
Wire wheels Engine Check the spokes for tightness once a year – simply run a spanner across the spokes and listen for any change in tone. The XK engine is tough, but once worn it’s costly to rebuild. A DIY rebuild costs £2000+ without any machining, while a profession­al rebuild is more like £5000-£6000.
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 ??  ?? Interior Many E-types have been imported from the US and converted to RHD. The work is usually done to a high standard, but these cars are worth slightly less than original RHD E-types.
Interior Many E-types have been imported from the US and converted to RHD. The work is usually done to a high standard, but these cars are worth slightly less than original RHD E-types.

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