Wise Buyer: BMW E30
James Walshe reckons the E30 not only the ultimate driving machine but the ultimate classic bargain 1982-1990
Now’s the time to buy, and we show you how to get the best.
In the Eighties, a class war was raging on Britain’s roads. For generations, motorists had been stubbornly faithful to the likes of mainstream car makers Austin, Ford, Rover, Vauxhall and others but now, the thrusting spirit of this new decade encouraged a mad scramble to upgrade to more exotic, fancy things. Granted, some still hankered for Ghia, SRI or Vanden Plas badging, but to others the best way to impress the neighbours was to get yourself a German. Specifically, a BMW.
The company’s efforts to build the ultimate driving machine are well documented but in the E30, BMW had launched a model that was not only highly aspirational but it was (just about) within reach of the average family car buyer.
Why do I want one?
To this day, the 3-Series remains the ultimate medium sector saloon. Premium and huge fun to drive, yet sensible and practical too – it all properly began with the E30. Sure, the charming 02 Series and E21 3-Series predecessors might have been the first compact Beemer saloons, but the E30 signified a newfound confidence and corporate identity.
While not the roomiest or most charismatic car of its day to look at, few Eighties saloons feel this good behind the wheel. Even the smaller engine models go well and handle brilliantly. And as with the similarly faithful and classy Golf Mk2 we featured last month, the appeal of such quality and usability hasn’t escaped the eye of enthusiasts. We’ve noticed values beginning to rise.
Which one should I buy?
The E30 was probably best-known for being a saloon – in either two or four door forms. You are more likely to stumble over one of the latter. The E30 was also made as a convertible from 1985 and, from 1987, the ‘Touring’. Find one of those and you’ll be rewarded with extra boot space, as well as a fine tale to tell at your local classic car show. BMW engineer Max Reisböck was so convinced the firm should build an estate version, in 1984 he secretly constricted a prototype in his mate’s garage. These days, they’re harder to find but worth investing in – especially for those with a pet dog to lug around.
Elsewhere in the range, the design didn’t change much over the years. Initially, the car got four and six-cylinder petrol engines from its predecessor
(the units are known as M10 and E20). The carburetted 316 and chrome-bumper 318i featured the M10, while the 316i and 318i had the M40 unit. The later 318is got a twin-cam M42 powerplant while the 323i and pre-1991 320i had an M20 engine.
What to look for
The E30 was well rust-proofed, which is why there are lots of reasonably corrosion-free examples around. Cherished cars should be entirely rust-free, although decent examples might still have some bubbling on the wheelarches and valances. Anything more significant suggests the car has been crashed, so check for tell-tale signs of rippled metal. If the car has a sunroof, check its rails as these rot away, making the panel loose; also
make sure the drains haven’t blocked, leading to waterlogged footwells. The boot can also fill with water because of perished rear light cluster, boot or aerial seals. Finish off by lifting the bonnet and checking that the battery tray hasn’t rotted because of spilt acid; repairs are tricky. The same goes for the scuttle at the base of the windscreen; its drains fill with leaves, leading to the water munching its way out. Badly fitted replacement windscreens can also leak. If replacement panels are needed, genuine and pattern parts are available, with the latter being well-made and relatively cheap. The only exception is pattern pre-facelift rear wheelarches, which are scarce.
Engines are tough but require thorough maintenance. The M20 and M40 engines have a belt-driven camshaft, while the M10 and M42 units are chain-driven. The M20 and M40 engines need a fresh belt every 40,000 miles or three years; they’re fairly cheap and replacement is straightforward.
If a belt or chain breaks, the engine will be wrecked, with replacements costing at least £1000; even a decent used six-cylinder head is £300+.
Fuel pumps also tend to fail after around 100,000 miles, so listen for humming under the offside rear sill. Finally, check the exhaust manifold retaining studs, which can shear. M42 manifolds are a particular problem, as they crack and warp.
The auto gearboxes last forever but the bearings in the manuals get noisy after around 150,000 miles. Rebuilds are costly, but good used gearboxes are under £100. The rear gearbox mounts can fail, leading to clonks and bangs, but the same symptom can be a failed flexi-disc in the propshaft or a worn diff bush. Leaks from the diff’s side and pinion seals are common.
Significant play in the steering is likely to be down to a perished flex disc on the steering column next to the universal joint; this eventually wears but replacement is easy and cheap. After 100,000 miles, the two rear subframe mounting bushes can wear badly. The symptom is clonks or bangs when accelerating, braking or driving over bumps. A special tool is needed to do the work.
Inside, the instrumentation can play up, thanks to problems with its circuit board. Erratic tacho readings are down to an earthing problem because of a dry joint; a magnifying glass helps identify the culprit while a soldering iron soon fixes it. Problems can also be caused by failure of the Ni-cad rechargeable battery that powers the instruments, with pre-1985 cars especially likely to suffer.
If you’re looking at a convertible, check the hood closely; new ones are £600-£700. Uneven shutlines around the side windows betrays a damaged hood frame, broken tension wires or badly adjusted windows. Any car with a factory hard top is worth seeking out; such cars can easily carry a £1000 premium.