Buyer’s Brief: P4

A graceful, stately classic that’ll look after you and your wallet

How to bag the best Rover P4 going.

Why you want one

With its origins in the pre-rock and Roll era, the P4 is your wholesome ticket to a charming world of trilby hats, pipes, wood and leather – all set to a fruity Glenn Miller Orchestra soundtrack. However, while the P4 is generally seen as more ‘rocking chair’ than

Rock Around the Clock, it has a few surprises up its sleeve. Built using high quality materials, the P4 is 21st century usable, easy to maintain and, with styling inspired by contemporary Studebakers, there are few classics as captivating. Such was the brilliance of the engineering, this tough old Rover is also a lot more fun to drive than you’d expect.

The ownership experience is rewarding, especially when you join the array of Rover clubs, which will offer all the support you need. Meantime, allow us to show you how to buy one of the most exceptionally charismatic British cars ever made.

Which one should I buy?

Built from 1949 to 1964, there’s a wide range of P4s to select from. It was upgraded throughout its lifetime, so understanding what you’re looking at is the key to any purchase. Are you sitting comfortably? First, there are the early 75s, with six-cylinder 2103cc engines and a single foglight, nicknamed ‘Cyclops’. That model was upgraded to 2230cc from 1955-1959. Then there’s the four-cylinder 60 (1997cc) and 80 (2286cc) models. The 90 (1954-1959) was a six-cylinder 2638cc car with optional overdrive, with the 105S (1957-58) boasting a higher compression version of the engine, and the 105R featuring Roverdrive two-pedal transmission.

The short-lived 105 of 1959 was succeeded by three 2625cc cars. The 100 (1959-1962) had a short-stroke 2625cc capacity version of the

Rover 3-litre engine, and two cars available from 1963-1964 were the 95, which had no overdrive, and 110, with a redesigned Weslake cylinder head and the ability to touch 100mph. Changes to the body over the years included a raised rear wing/boot height and, from 1955, a wraparound window.

What should I look for?

The P4’s durability means they lasted well, with a solid chassis and high-quality, thick steel panels. The areas to focus your inspection on are the headlamp and indicator surrounds, front wing trailing edges, inner wheelarches and boot floor.

The area where the fuel filler pipe enters the car is also vulnerable, and especially on pre-1954 cars. The front wings should be removable, as they’re bolted on, but a patch often gets welded into the inner wheelarch, permanently attaching the wing to the main structure. Sorting this is a big job, so look for bodging. Also check the A- and B-posts, where the doors attach; these often rust and while repair sections are available, fitting is not an easy job.

The P4’s separate chassis is tough but outriggers can corrode; of the three fitted, it’s the front and middle ones that rust the most.

Engines need fresh oil and a new filter every 2000 miles to avoid premature camshaft wear. A good P4 engine should be almost inaudible; if it’s clattery, the valve clearances are out, possibly because of a tired camshaft. All P4 engines have an alloy head with hardened valve seat inserts, allowing the use of unleaded fuel. Finally, the 80 has a somewhat delicate Solex carburettor that tends to break up inside from the engine heat. The best fix is an SU or Weber conversion.

Two types of gearbox were fitted to the P4, and they’re both strong. Most common is the four-speed manual transmission, but a semi-automatic ‘box dubbed Roverdrive was also offered. The latter was fitted only to the 105R (R for Roverdrive), and although the transmission isn’t weak as such, it does wear out and parts for it are hard to find. This gearbox also blunts the P4’s performance, while also increasing fuel consumption, so it’s a bit of an acquired taste, even if it’s pleasant enough to use.

All P4s have a steering box with common wear points, with things not helped by a perishing oil seal at the base of the box – it’s awkward to renew, so it tends to get left, allowing the box to run dry. The secret is to use the thickest oil available (at least 140SAE, preferably 250SAE) and keep it topped up.

The front suspension has numerous wear points. Feel for play in the kingpins. It helps if they’ve been oiled regularly – not greased – so ask the owner how they’ve maintained the car. Look for movement in the front suspension because of wear in the link bushes at the top of the kingpin. Once these bushes have worn, the tracking will be out, the tyres will wear on their inside edges. The bushes in the lower kingpin links also wear, causing metal to rub against metal. Check the brakes carefully. The key issue is perished seals in the master cylinder; it’s located under the car, so it gets bombarded with water and debris. It’s easy to check the system’s level though; if a rebuild is needed, with a bit of research you can do it yourself easily enough.

The P4’s electrical system is straightforward, but problems can crop up, many centring on the age of the components. Early electrical looms had cloth braiding, which deteriorates; later cars featured more durable plastic shrouding.

The P4’s cabin is a big part of what makes the car so appealing – as long as it’s in good nick. All cars were fitted with leather trim, so make sure it hasn’t split, torn or dried out and cracked. You also need to make sure the Wilton carpets haven’t seen better days, although a new set at around £250 isn’t the end of the world. Replacements are unavailable but making decent new ones isn’t difficult. It's stuff like this that makes owning a Rover P4 so satisfying.