Buyer’s Brief: Morgan Plus 8
James Walshe examines one of the greatest British bruisers of all
How to bag antique looks, V8 power.
Why you want one
While it may look like a quaint, charismatic Thirties roadster, this particular Morgan packs the most unexpected punch. For those in the know, it is a British brute and a classic legend. For others, they’d be forgiven for jumping out their skin if one of these were to start up nearby. The Morgan Plus 8 absolutely oozes drama... in the best possible way.
From the stunning, swoopy shape to the outright thrust from its Rover V8, this particular product of Malvern’s little factory is still very much in demand and for that reason, there’s no such thing as a bargain Plus 8. However, once you’ve done the maths and checked the contents of your piggy bank, you’ll discover that legendary engine has never found another home quite like this one!
Which one should you buy?
Production of the Plus 8 began in 1968 and ended in 2004, so while that sounds like you’ll have a fair choice, they’re not exactly common. You’ll find a mix of aluminium and steel bodywork, so it’s important to know what you are looking at on a viewing. Many cars will have received a refurb by now, so check paperwork closely to find out who did it, and when.
Under the bonnet, early models got the same unit as the Rover P6, and some later versions a higheroutput unit from the SD1. From
1983, Lucas fuel injection meant almost 200bhp and from 1990, the Plus 8 was fitted with a Range Rover
3.9 and later, a 240bhp 4.6. Gearbox improvements also took place, with a Rover 2000 ‘box replacing the Moss unit in 1973 and a five-speed gearbox arriving in 1977, along with a revised dash. You’ll find airbags on models built after 1997, and GEMS fuel injection from 2000.
Morgan Sports Car Club member Alan Foster, who hads owned his Plus 8 for 33 years, says it’s vital to try before you buy. ‘Morgans have quite a stiff ride, for instance, so hiring one to get a feel for it is wise. Alan also recommends one particular book by author David Wellings. ‘Buying and Maintaining a Modern Traditional Morgan will help get your head around Morgan’s rather complex model history!’
What should I look for?
Fortunately, Morgans appeal almost exclusively to petrolheads, so the average standard of care is high, but it’s still worth being very wary of misuse and lack of maintenance by knowledgeable folk.
The Morgan’s wooden frame provides a huge amount of strength to the steel chassis so it’s essential the car you’re looking at is in good shape underneath. There is a certain amount of flex, but detect too much on the test drive and you could be facing trouble. It’s not unusual for a Morgan to need dismantling in order to execute fairly minor repairs, so you’ll need to be a confident restorer before you get stuck in yourself.
Garage storage will have been key to preserving the chassis and, of course, that ash frame. If the door is difficult to shut, be certain it isn’t because of rot in the frame. Give the B-post a gentle shove back and forth with the door open. Movement is bad news. Same goes for the trim down on the sills and also the wooden A-posts (for which you should jiggle the door and look for excess movement). Those built from the late Eighties have survived
better, thanks to their galvanised chassis and pressure-treated ash frame but if original, that wood treatment will have taken place a long time ago. If you’re looking at an early car, you must ask if the chassis has been replaced.
The Rover V8 is a durable lump, but do check for signs of head gasket failure, plus you’ll need to know the cooling system has been maintained properly. The aluminium cylinder heads warp easily, so imperfect cooling needs fixing, pronto!
Tired Rover V8s experience timing chain rattles. Plus 8 owners put their cars to an amazing variety of uses, from crossing continents to competing in the Morgan Challenge race series, so investigating the previous owners’ pastimes tends to throw up crucial clues about the car’s health – and therefore its value. 3.5-litre Rover V8s are capable of high mileages if they’re well maintained. There are quirks in the front suspension and steering that require close consideration when maintaining. The unsophisticated sliding-pillar system needs regular lubrication so make sure it has been done. Some owners may have converted to hard chrome-plated kingpins (helping to increase longevity) but when inspecting any car, rock the front wheel back and forth to see if the kingpins are worn and look for a shimmy from the steering wheel while on the test drive. While you’re at it, see if you can detect sagging rear springs too.
Cars must be leak-free, as hoods are quite expensive and aren’t exactly weather-proof with age. Sourcing most trim isn’t too difficult, as long as you have the budget to pay for it. We like a bit of patina on a classic, but if the walnut dash and lockable glovebox (optional from 1989) is gone, a new one will cost around £300.