REPLACE LIGHT UNITS
Remove old units
Start by removing the lenses of side and indicator lamps then the fixings which hold the unit bodies to the wing. Two screws on the grill-side of the headlight surround allow it to be pulled clear.
Our early Ninety required the wiring to be cut and crimped, where later cars use plug and play multi plugs. The new units require two holes to be drilled for their (supplied) securing screws.
Flasher unit
A standard flasher unit uses a bimetallic strip to amke and break the circuit. As LEDS draw less current, an electronic flasher unit must be fitted in its place.
Replace headlight bulbs
On the Landy, while the headlight surrounds are off, it’s the best time to access the headlights and consider upgrades. We’re fitting a high power LED upgrade in a pleasingly period ivory white.
Remove and replace the stop tail/indicator units at the rear as with the front. Consider upgrading the numberplate lamp bulbs at the same time.
Interior light
A warm white LED bulb in here not only provides a far brighter cabin than a filament bulb, but also runs at a far lower temperature, a boon for classics with fragile plastic lenses.
Headlight options
For newer cars where LED headlight bulbs could cause issues come MOT time, light units are specifically designed for LEDS are available. Pictured are Britpart’s Lynx Eye LED headlights.
Drop-in bulbs are fitted both reverse and fog lamps, the latter illuminating in bright red, to avoid much of its spectrum of light output being absorbed by the lens.
Dash lighting
Peering at poorly illuminated gauges can be a challenge for the eyes at night, Here we’re fitting BCL’S T10/501 bulbs in green. Bulbs that work with rheostat-equipped cars are also available.