Your tour: Donegal
Janette Sykes discovers the rugged beauty of the cliffs and coves of Ireland’s north-west coast
‘Bundoran’s seaweed is a very precious commodity, prized by locals and visitors alike’
Until we actually reached Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, on its captivating west coast, neither my husband nor I had ever given much thought to the health benefits of seaweed. But arriving in Bundoran, southern Donegal, on the second leg of a summer touring holiday across the Irish Sea before the pandemic struck, it quickly became clear this was a very precious commodity, prized by locals and visitors alike.
Harvested from the Atlantic, bladderwrack is the main ingredient in the relaxing bath, steam and shower treatment at Bundoran Seaweed Baths, overlooking its handsome beach and spectacular headland.
It’s said to relieve muscle pain, arthritis, fatigue, tension and stress, as well as soothing and smoothing tired and damaged skin. And when we discovered that its natural organic oils were also an antidote to ageing and cellulite, well, we were sold!
We booked a dual room for an hour’s treatment, first spending about 10 minutes in individual steam cabinets to open our pores, then taking the plunge into rather pleasingly old-fashioned seawater baths, which were brimming with the essential seaweed.
Perfect pick-me-up
Before immersing ourselves, we were advised to burst the plant’s capsules while soaking (as tension-busting as popping bubble wrap!) to release its non-sticky gel into the hot water to condition both skin and hair.
Our least favourite aspect of the treatment was the cold salt-water shower at the end, but a reviving cup of tea in reception, overlooking Bundoran’s promenade and the sea views beyond, more than compensated.
This proved to be the perfect pick-me-up during our stay at Lakeside Caravan & Camping Park at nearby Ballyshannon, nestling right on the shores of scenic Assaroe Lake.
Tourist brochures describe Bundoran as the Surf Capital of Ireland – part of an Atlantic Coast surfing trail with partners in the UK, France,
Spain and Portugal. Miles of clean, uncrowded sandy beach welcome surfers and watersports enthusiasts from beginners to experts, including the world’s best. It’s also an ideal location to enjoy other outdoor activities, such as kayaking, sailing, high ropes and climbing.
Riding on the beach
We like swimming, but we love horse riding even more, so decided to book a two-hour beach ride at Donegal Equestrian Centre, on the edge of the biscuit-coloured sands of Tullan Strand.
The centre is open all year round and has a good choice of ponies and horses to suit all sizes, ages and abilities; our mounts were a broken-coloured cob called Rayon and a grey mare called Smurf. Both proved lively and surefooted, and our ride along the vast expanse of smooth beach and among the nearby dunes included several exhilarating gallops, during one of the most pleasurable rides we’ve ever had.
Although it was the height of the holiday season in July, the strand was virtually empty, save for ourselves and a group of teenagers having a whale of a time learning the rudiments of surfing. We were also very impressed by the panoramic views – back to Bundoran and over to Ballyshannon, across to the mouth of the River Erne and Kildoney Point.
Bundoran has built its name as a traditional family resort, with attractions ranging from Waterworld, a huge indoor aqua adventure playground, to amusement arcades and bingo.
Its pubs are famous for their live music, especially traditional, country and rock – and mainstream and indie music fans flock here for The Sea Sessions Surf Music Festival each June.
Golfing and walking
For those who might perhaps prefer rather more leisurely pursuits, nearby Bundoran Golf Club is an 18-hole championship course offering a good combination of parkland and pure links golf. Dating back to 1896, it’s one of the oldest courses in Ireland, in a breathtaking clifftop location.