Expert tips for cleaning your ’van
Before you start using any new cleaning products and solutions, always test them on a small area.
Never use high-pressure jet washers directly on the surfaces of a motorhome – particularly a coachbuilt – at close range. Many are powerful enough to remove decals, damage sealant or force water through window seals or locker hatches.
Change the water regularly, so you’re not rubbing dirty water, containing damaging grit, into your paintwork. Over time, this grit creates swirls on the surfaces.
Rinse your cloth or sponge frequently, to avoid any grit build-up. My old faithfuls (pictured below) are these microfibre wash mitts and drying cloths from Paragon.
Invest in a cleaning bucket with a raised grid in the base, which lets grit drop to the bottom of the bucket, while the water remains free from grit, minimising the risk of scratching.
Older and neglected ’vans with GRP panels can suffer from degrading of the outer resin layer of the GRP. Once exposed, the inner layer can become chalky and fragile.
Although this damage can’t be repaired, these degraded areas can still be protected, and their shine restored, by applying a coat of polish to them. Ideally you should do this two or three times a year for best effect.
Always try to be especially careful when spraying water around any of the door and window seals, especially on older vehicles.
Scuffs and marks on surfaces can often be removed by using a lightly abrasive pad, or a rubbing compound such as T-Cut. These solutions contain fine abrasive particles and remove light scratches and restore paint colour by rubbing away the top layer of the damaged surface. This is done on an almost molecular level, meaning that you are very unlikely to damage your vehicle by using them.
Use a toothbrush or a nail brush to clean the external fridge vents.
Be wary of using powerful petroleum-based cleaning solutions and degreasants on your vehicle’s exterior – they could degrade silicone sealants and mastic compounds.
The Erase Away sponge (pictured right) is ideal for use on decals because it’s non-chemical. This will quickly restore badges and stickers to their former glory.
Check that your choice of cleaning agent is suitable for all of the surfaces and materials with which it will come into contact. Some instructions, for example, state that the product should not be sprayed onto any decals or sealants.
Always make sure you follow the instructions for using each of your cleaning agents, such as leaving spray on surfaces for a minute or two so it can start to act, before rubbing it in and then rinsing the area down.
Keep all of your door, window and locker seals in fine fettle by rubbing them over with a silicone grease or spray at least twice a year. This will help to protect and preserve them, preventing them from degrading because of sunlight (UV) exposure. It will also minimise any hardening.
Apply the grease or spray to a clean cloth and then wipe the lubricant liberally around the seals. While you have the product to hand, you might also want to apply some silicone lube to the toilet cassette seal.
Once the motorhome is clean and the seals have been lubed, go around it and spray a small amount of lubricant into locks, working it in fully with the key.
If you have a real aversion to cleaning your motorhome, you could consider investing in one of the many protective sealant/coating systems on the market. These are designed to repel water and dirt, making vehicle cleaning more of a rinse down than a full-on scrub.
Most of these products are sprayed on, or handapplied by professionals, and marketing information explains that Teflon or Nano-ceramic compounds work at a molecular level to get into the ‘pores’ of the plastic or paint finish, protecting the surfaces of the motorhome and resisting attack from damaging contaminants. One application will be enough, and protection will also be guaranteed by some of the firms involved in this business. Many motorhome owners swear by coatings available from the likes of Paintseal Direct or Diamondbrite.
If you’ve got a porch or similar freestanding awning, you should make sure to give it a thorough clean at the start and end of the season. The best way to do this is to check with the manufacturer about the type of products that you should and shouldn’t use, in order to avoid any potential damage.
cleaning solution and rub. Wipe them down, give them a final rinse, then dry off with the Paragon drying towel.
Polishing
Adding a protective layer of polish to your vehicle twice a year will help to keep it in pristine condition, forming a barrier against bird droppings and sap and making it easier to wash. Quality polishes include Meguiar’s, Autoglym, Fenwick’s and Care-avan.
Cleaning products
In tests of cleaning agents, I have found there are substantial differences between the various products on the market. Often, these have been more in the amount of effort they take to use (which is relatively easy to identify), rather than their overall cleaning effectiveness (which isn’t, because most of them are pretty good).
In my opinion, while many products will do a good job, the best combination for ease of use and cleaning effectiveness is offered by Muc-Off. I use the spray, which does a really excellent job of removing black streaks, diesel exhaust particles, tar spots, algae, fungus, bird droppings, and road and traffic film.
Simply spray it on, leave it for a minute, then rub the dirt away and rinse. Muc-Off leaves a shiny finish with minimal effort.
Muc-Off’s Caravan & Motorhome Cleaner has the same formula as its Nano Tech Bike Cleaner, and the firm now markets it under the latter name. It is highly recommended and costs about £10.99 for a one-litre spray, or £23.99 for a five-litre canister.
Although I’m a big fan of Aldi, in my experience its vehicle cleaning products require a little more elbow grease than their pricier competitors. You might need to spend extra time on the average motorhome to get a similar effect to other brands – but you might also decide the financial saving is worth it.
I found the Cara Finesse and Fenwick’s solutions to be equally effective. Both of these were faster and easier to use than Aldi products, but you do pay more.
Muc-Off, Autoglym and Care-avan No Water Wash & Shine do not require water (although it’s recommended for grime, softening and rinsing), handy for impromptu sprucing up while you’re away in the ’van. Autoglym can also be used on the interior, which might offset some of its more premium pricing. For me, when combining cost, ease of use, versatility and cleaning power, Muc-Off is the one.
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