Practical Motorhome

FIT AN AWNING LIGHT WITH PHOTOCELL

This small DIY project can make a big difference to an older ’van, says Nigel Hutson

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The 20-year-old awning light fitted to my parents’ elderly ’van still worked, but shone a rather dull yellow rather than its original white. We’d cleaned the opaque cover several times, but the plastic had discoloure­d with age. Not only that, but it was still using the original bulbs, rather than energysavi­ng LEDs. So it was time for a change.

We could have just replaced like for like, but we thought that it might be handy to fit a unit with a photocell, which would cause the light to switch on when it was dark outside.

If you use brightly lit full-facility campsites, an awning light isn’t really a necessity, but on a smaller site or a CL/CS, they can be invaluable. What better way to help you find your keys (and see the lock!) when it is pitch dark outside than a light that switches itself on?

We duly bought a new light unit incorporat­ing a photocell that switched on a couple of LEDs. We then realised that, although this was one unit, the lights operated independen­tly of each other; that is, the photocell LEDs were wired separately to the main light – which was a power-hungry halogen bulb. So a new light switch would also be required, together with some rewiring, and at the same time, the halogen bulb would be changed for another energy-saving LED.

For this project, we were working with the 12V system, so before anything else, the mains power and 12V batteries were safely disconnect­ed.

Tools required for the job

Cross-head screwdrive­r

Small flat-head screwdrive­r

Electric drill with 2mm and

8mm bits, plus 22mm wood bit

Stanley knife

Mastic gun and cartridge of sealant

Wire strippers and crimps

Insulating tape

The first step was to ensure the new light unit was slightly larger than the original, because the screw holes securing it to the side of the ’van would be in different positions. The power cables were in different places, too, of course.

The old cover was unclipped from the light unit, and the screws securing it were removed. It was amazing the light had still worked so well, because when we started to remove the various electrical connection­s, most simply disintegra­ted.

It might have been possible to reuse the power cables on a new unit if it only required a switched single live feed and single earth, but our new unit required two of each, so rewiring was needed.

Because the original wiring ran inside the wall and roof of the ’van, we had to make the job as neat as possible, using trunking.

With the old unit removed, the power cables were trimmed and the ends insulated with tape (the other end of the power supply would be disconnect­ed from the switch, so would no longer be live), before being tucked inside the wall. All of the old holes were then well filled with sealant (Carafax IDL99 110).

Working inside, the wall switch operating an internal light and the awning light was removed, and the cables disconnect­ed (making a note of which wire was where for the internal light).

The cables ran in some trunking inside the dresser, which gave us easy access when the cover was removed. We’d bought a new triple light switch that matched the old one, but the original hole where the switch was mounted needed enlarging. Using a 22mm wood bit and a Stanley knife, the hole was opened out so that the new triple unit would fit.

Measure before drilling

Carefully measuring where the new light unit would fit, an 8mm hole was drilled through the wall (after drilling a pilot hole) where the wires would need to pass through to the inside.

With that drilled, a section of self-adhesive trunking was fitted (we decided the trunking would look better if it covered the whole gap between the washroom wall and the dresser, rather than being cut off halfway along).

Then, working from the outside and using the 8mm hole, the same hole was drilled through the back of the trunking, and another hole was drilled in the dresser to where the original wires were.

Before fitting the light unit, we also changed the original halogen bulb for another LED.

The new unit was supplied with self-tapping screws, which were used to attach it loosely to the wall, feeding the wires through the hole first. Crimped bullet connectors were attached to the ends of the wires feeding the photocell LEDs, and crimped spade connectors for the awning light.

With the original power feed from the battery connected to the new switch unit, power to the other two switches was piggybacke­d from this

(as the originals had been).

Then, two lengths of red cable (live) were run from the switches to the cables from the unit (with their respective crimped connectors).

Next, an earth cable was rerouted, which was connected using a terminal block to two lengths of earth cable (black). The loose ends were again connected to the ‘spare’ cables from the wires attached to the light unit.

Time to test the lights

With the light switches in the ‘off’ position, the 12V battery was reconnecte­d to test the light. It was much brighter than the old one and the photocell worked just as it should.

With the power safely disconnect­ed again, the light was removed and sealant applied to the back of the unit, around the hole where the cables entered the ’van, and around all of the screws and screw holes.

The unit was then secured to the exterior wall. Internally, the cables were tidied inside the trunking, and finally, the switch unit was secured before reconnecti­ng the 12V battery.

The result is a neat and practical upgrade from the original light, which also offers the added security of the photocell-activated LEDs.

Future Publishing Limited, the publisher of Practical Motorhome, provides the informatio­n in this article in good faith and makes no representa­tion as to its completene­ss or accuracy. Individual­s carrying out the instructio­ns do so at their own risk and must exercise their independen­t judgement in determinin­g the appropriat­eness of the advice to their circumstan­ces. Individual­s should take appropriat­e safety precaution­s and be aware of the risk of electrocut­ion when dealing with electrical products. To the fullest extent permitted by law, neither Future nor its employees or agents shall have any liability in connection with the use of this informatio­n. Double check any warranty is not affected before proceeding.

 ?? ?? 4 Remove the old light switches
4 Remove the old light switches
 ?? ?? 8 Open up screw hole using the 22mm wood bit
8 Open up screw hole using the 22mm wood bit
 ?? ?? 3 Remove screws securing the old unit
3 Remove screws securing the old unit
 ?? ?? 7 New switches and old screw hole
7 New switches and old screw hole
 ?? ?? 2 First, remove the old light cover (lights on for photo)
2 First, remove the old light cover (lights on for photo)
 ?? ?? 6 Cut and insulate the old wires
6 Cut and insulate the old wires
 ?? ?? 5 Original trunking inside the dresser
5 Original trunking inside the dresser
 ?? ?? 1 The new light (top) and the old one to be replaced (bottom)
1 The new light (top) and the old one to be replaced (bottom)
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 ?? ?? 13 Halogen bulb replaced by LED in the new unit
13 Halogen bulb replaced by LED in the new unit
 ?? ?? 9 Cables on the new light unit
9 Cables on the new light unit
 ?? ?? 10 Measure where the hole for the cable needs to be
10 Measure where the hole for the cable needs to be
 ?? ?? 14 Original wires and piggybacks on light switches
14 Original wires and piggybacks on light switches
 ?? ?? 11 Drill a pilot hole
12 Seal the old holes
11 Drill a pilot hole 12 Seal the old holes
 ?? ?? 15 Sealant on the back of the unit before fixing
15 Sealant on the back of the unit before fixing
 ?? ?? 16 All lights on (top); photocell-activated LEDs (bottom)
16 All lights on (top); photocell-activated LEDs (bottom)
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