Deal with seized nuts and bolts

There should be no rea­son to ad­mit de­feat and reach for the drill if you fol­low these hard and fast rules for pain­less ex­trac­tions

Practical Sportsbikes (UK) - - Special Brew - WORDS JIM MOORE PHO­TOG­RA­PHY STU­ART COLLINS

EIZED NUTS, bolts and fas­ten­ers are in­evitable bed­fel­lows of old bike restora­tion and main­te­nance. Wa­ter ingress, road filth, and re­peated heat cy­cles all do their bit to tighten the grip of metal on metal lead­ing to, if tack­led in­cor­rectly, stripped threads, chewed heads, skinned knuck­les, and in­ap­pro­pri­ate use of ham­mers and an­gle grinders – a nasty clutch of un­de­sir­ables.

But with a bit of lat­eral think­ing and the ap­pli­ca­tion of cun­ning tech­nique you need never wres­tle with or swear at a seem­ingly seized fas­tener again.

So con­fi­dent were we that no furred up nut or bolt would cause us is­sue that we wheeled Big G’s TS250 onto the work bench – the very worst ex­am­ple of ne­glect, de­cay and fes­ter­ing cor­ro­sion in PS’S cur­rent shed of shame. Gary’s sorry look­ing Suzuki is pep­pered with rusted threads, rounded bolt heads, cor­roded Allen

STECHNICAL DIF­FI­CULTY? (cap­head) fix­tures, and each and ev­ery one of them has got to come away from the bike be­fore Grumpy can re­build it, so we got to work.

This is what we found, and how we tack­led it…

Tools for the job

Screw­driver. JIS screw­driver. Mal­let. Hammer. Pen­e­trat­ing oil. T-bar. Heat gun. Bolt ex­trac­tor kit. Flame­less heat tool

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