De­pend­able screamer fond of oil

Practical Sportsbikes (UK) - - News -

En­gine

Al­though the five-valve four is high-revving and has a fairly high oil con­sump­tion rate (ex­pect to get through a litre ev­ery 1000 miles – so keep an eye on the level), it’s es­sen­tially solid with no prob­lems.that said, watch out for blue smoke, oil leaks and any de­posits in the end-can as all are sure signs of trouble ahead.

EXUP valves

Yamaha’s EXUP valves are known to get sticky what­ever model you’re deal­ing with and theyzf is no ex­cep­tion. Make sure the servo mo­tor turns when you switch the ig­ni­tion on. It’s lo­cated in­side the frame rail un­der the base of the tank on the right side. You should hear a tell-tale whirr.at the same time check the ca­bles run­ning to it move freely and cor­rectly.

Clutch/gear­box

THEYZF’S clutch, like manyyama­has of the pe­riod, isn’t its strong­est suit, even more so be­cause of the strain the 750’s per­for­mance puts it un­der.any ex­am­ple over 20,000 miles is likely to need a re­place­ment, so bud­get ac­cord­ingly.the six-speed gear­box is gen­er­ally sound if notchy but sec­ond gear in par­tic­u­lar is prone to wear.

Ex­haust

Af­ter­mar­ket ex­hausts rarely im­prove the per­for­mance of theyzf and more of­ten than not ac­tu­ally re­duce its flow as back pres­sure is crit­i­cal, espe­cially if the EXUP valve is re­moved with a full sys­tem. Even if just a race can is fit­ted, be­ware – the EXUP valve means that carbs will need care­ful set­ting up.

Frame

Al­though theyamaha Deltabox is fairly solid it’s eas­ily dam­aged and is sus­cep­ti­ble to that as so manyyzfs have ended up on track. In­spect care­fully and be­ware of pol­ished frames.they may look shiny but are of­ten buffed to re­move ev­i­dence of dam­age.

Brakes

Front six-pot calipers are OK if looked af­ter, but like many calipers of the era are prone to seiz­ing if ne­glected, al­though they do free up fairly eas­ily.the calipers’ ten­dency to seize also means warped discs are not un­com­mon. Check for puls­ing through the lever and af­ter­mar­ket re­place­ments.

Electrics

The lo­ca­tion of most of the elec­tri­cal gub­bins un­der the seat means they’re right in the line of spray from the back wheel and thus prone to early cor­ro­sion.when in­spect­ing en­sure you re­move the seat and check around the bat­tery tray area very thor­oughly.

Speedo ca­ble

The speedome­ter ca­ble on theyzf750 is prone to work­ing loose at the drive end with the re­sult be­ing a click­ing or jumpy speedo nee­dle – or one that doesn’t work at all. If left to run when notchy the in­ner ca­ble can be dam­aged and break al­though it’s sim­ple and fairly cheap to re­place.

Fuel switch

The ear­li­est mod­els have a switch on the left-side fair­ing in­ner panel for fuel re­serve. Check that it’s con­nected up and work­ing prop­erly as oth­er­wise you’ll be run­ning in the re­serve po­si­tion and will be li­able to run out of fuel.

Cos­met­ics

As with mostyama­has of the pe­riod the YZF’S fin­ish in some ar­eas isn’t the best with flaky white wheel paint and cor­ro­sion-prone fas­ten­ers and fork slid­ers the worst cul­prits. You won’t have to look hard to spot it: any bike that’s been at all ne­glected will stand out a mile away. Ques­tion­able DIY paintjobs and nasty af­ter­mar­ket an­odised bolts abound.

Use­ful con­tacts

cm­snl.com yzf750r.com

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