Prima (UK)

Reset your beauty routine

Time to hit refresh on your regime? Kazia Pelka has some words of advice

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Q

I keep hearing about acids in skincare. Should I be using one?

A

Definitely, possibly even more than one. Here’s my guide to the most popular and what they could do for you. ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS) Found in exfoliatin­g products such as leave-on brightenin­g toners and peel pads, AHAS provide a more thorough, gentle alternativ­e to scratchy scrubs, which can be aggressive for your skin. Derived from plant sugars, they work by breaking the bonds between dead surface skin cells, plus they increase cell turnover, improve fine lines and boost hydration levels, too. They are the perfect addition to any anti-ageing routine if you have normal, dry or sun-damaged skin and want a smoother, more even-toned, radiant complexion. Glycolic acid is the flag-flyer here with its small molecule size, which penetrates deeper into the skin, making it highly effective.

Try Superdrug Naturally

Radiant Glycolic Tonic, £5.99. The larger the molecule of the AHA, the slower it works, so in ascending order (small to large) look out for lactic, tartaric, citric, malic and, finally, mandelic acid, which is derived from almonds and one of the largest molecules, making it a good choice for sensitive skin. As well as facial products with AHAS, I use a body serum with lactic acid – perfect for the neck, décolletag­e and pimply skin on the back of the arms. Try REN AHA Smart Renewal Body Serum, £35, or

Ameliorate Transformi­ng Body Lotion, £14.50. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen, minimum SPF30, on exposed skin when using AHAS.

BETA HYDROXY ACID (BHA) Salicylic acid is the only one and is oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates the skin deeper than

AHAS, cleaning out pores as well as dissolving dead surface skin cells. Its anti-inflammato­ry properties mean it calms oily and blemish-prone complexion­s.

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquiexfol­iant, £26,

is a great buy. HYALURONIC ACID (HA) This is not an exfoliatin­g acid, but a hydrating one and occurs naturally in the skin. As we age however, levels deplete, contributi­ng to lines and loss of firmness. Hyaluronic acid can hold 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it an ideal ingredient in serums and creams for plumper, younger-looking skin. Try Niod Multi-molecular Hyaluronic Complex, £25, or The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £5.90. I use a drop of HA every day before applying my serum and moisturise­r.

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